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Concrete is probably one of the most versatile building materials ever discovered by mankind.
It has the ability to be moulded into almost any shape or form adhering to any design. Concrete also has a high compressive strength making it perfect for load bearing structures and surfaces. It is no surprise that concrete garden edging has multiple applications within the landscaping sphere. In this article I will list and summarise some of the best concrete garden edging blocks for garden landscaping. Block paving
Block paving is a pre-cast concrete paving traditionally used to surface driveways and car-ports. These paving blocks lock together tightly laid upon a compacted bed of sharp sand. The extreme popularity of these pavers has led to a diverse array of paving products on the market. Block paving now comes in styles catering for contemporary, traditional and even historical themes. Such a broad range has also made them an extremely popular choice for garden edging. Block paving is now widely utilised for edging lawns, flower borders and pathways. Kerb edging stones
Kerb edging stones are large concrete edging blocks typically manufactured to accompany block paving. These robust kerbs are traditionally used to lay retaining edging to steps, low walls and beds. Kerb edging stones come in a broad variety of block shapes ranging from bull-nose to curved and chambered. Being large and bulky these concrete edgings can really inject some impact to your garden landscaping. They are particularly useful for creating gradual level changes to sloping ground. Concrete block edging
Concrete block is a typical building material and common in some form worldwide. These pre-cast concrete blocks are 'non-facing' meaning they will be clad, tiled, rendered or painted. This gives them much versatility in terms of look and design style. Not only are concrete blocks relatively inexpensive they can be laid to any form. Blocks can easily be cut down to form curves and fit into any specification. This makes them extremely useful for creating concrete garden edging. Laid blocks can provide retaining features, borders and low wall landscape edging. Path edging kerbs
Path edging kerbs are long and narrow concrete edging kerbs designed to retain pathways and landscape surfaces. These concrete edgings typically come in a standard size of approximately 1m x 150mm x 50mm. However these edging kerbs can actually be utilised in a number of ways to provide robust edging. Most notably kerbs are used for retaining edges to hard standings and dividers between neighbouring surfaces. Path edging kerbs also come in more decorative products with patterning and differing colour tones. In-situ concrete garden edging
In-situ concrete simply means concrete mixed, laid and formed on site. Typically large concrete installations are formed this way, for example buildings and skate parks. However there is also a place for in-situ concrete when it comes to garden edging. Garden edgings can be formed in-situ using formwork or shuttering. This type of concrete garden edging is great for bespoke edging work and flowing designs. However, most in-situ concrete edgings will require a level of reinforcement and expansion added during construction.
Thank you for reading our article on the best concrete garden edging blocks.
Below I will link to some of our other articles you may find relevant. If you require fencing or gate post installation do not hesitate to contact us. Based in Amersham we undertake a wide range of garden landscape projects. Our landscaping services include; brickwork, paving, pathways, edging installation, fencing, drainage systems, landscape design, garden clearances, new lawns garden re-levelling, ponds, wildlife gardens and gravel installation. We cover most of Buckinghamshire including Hertfordshire, Oxfordshire and the local regions of Amersham, Aylesbury, Beaconsfield, Chesham, Chalfont Great Missenden, Gerrards cross, High Wycombe & Tring
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Installing gate posts for wooden and garden gates is one of the most crucial stages of timber gate installation.
As timber is a natural product it is susceptible to varying moisture content and seasonal movement. Consequently installing gate posts correctly is crucial to avoid excessive gapping and jamming. In this article I will not only explain how to install timber gate posts step by step. I will also describe measures and tips to avoid some of the pit falls of gate post installation. In this article I will include step by step pictures of recent gate posts I have installed. Tools you will need
Shopping list
How to install wooden gate posts step by step
Step 1: Setting up your line
Set up a string line or long and straight piece of timber across your gate line. This will enable you to mark out, excavate and set in your gate posts straight. Step 2: Mark out your holes
At this point it is a good idea to cut a piece of timber to the exact width of your gate with an extra 3mm at each end. For example if your gate is 900mm wide cut your timber squarely at 906mm. Now mark out the centre point of your gate posts and mark out a circle around the centre. The radius from the centre should be about 130mm all the way round. The best way to mark out your post holes is with line marker paint. Step 3: Excavate your post holes
Excavate your post holes so you have clean sides with a level bottom. You are aiming for a depth of around 600mm deep. This is best done with a digging bar and post hole diggers featured in the image below. Step 4: Check your post heights
Place your posts into your excavated post holes so you can check their heights. You want to make sure the posts are slightly higher that the gate when the gate is installed. Remember that it is custom procedure to elevate your gate off the ground by an inch or two. Step 5: Set in your first post
Place your first post into the first hole so there is a reasonable void around the post. It is good to set in posts to a string line so they are flush with the existing fence. When the post is in position fill the hole half full with water. Now empty the first bag of postcrete evenly around the hole. Using a long stick mix the dry mix with the water distributing it evenly around the post hole. Add more water if necessary and add the second bag, mix well until it forms a level mix. Set in posts with their sides as flush as possible, any angles could prevent gates from closing fully. As the post sets over the next 10 minutes check its vertical level so it remains in place. Step 6: Set in your second postSet in your second post using your gauge to make sure the correct distance is set for the gate. A good tip here is to screw a timber brace along the front line of your posts. Once the posts are screwed into position and level you can concrete them in more easily. Add your concrete making sure the posts distance and vertical level as you work. Step 7: Fix a spacer gauge
As posts are setting they can occasionally move slightly out of position. This can lead to a wider or tighter gate width than is optimum. As this issue typically affects the top of posts a spacer gauge can be installed while they set. This simply involves screwing a section of gravel board across the top of the gate posts. You can use your 906mm timber gauge to set the distance while you fix it into position. Step 8: Check your levels
Once your posts have been concreted, it is a good idea to check their vertical levels. Go around your posts with a spirit level and make sure they are as plumb as possible. You have now completed your fence posts and ready to hang your gate. FAQ’S
How do you fit a wooden gate post?
Wooden gate posts should be a minimum thickness of 100mm and set into concrete 600mm deep into the ground. You should use fence posts treated for outdoor use but should also water proof the bottom 600mm. This can be brushed on with a wood preservative to prevent rot at the soil line. You should also only use the straightest timber posts possible and set them in as vertically level as possible. Should gate posts be set in concrete?
Yes gate posts need to be solid with no threat of movement. If fence posts have any movement they can lead to gates jamming or not closing properly. Posts should be concreted at least 600mm deep with at least 75mm (3 inches of concrete all the way round) How deep should a wooden fence post be?A wooden fence post should be well concreted into the ground about 600mm deep (2 feet). How many bags of postcrete per post?
You should add at least two 20kg bags of postcrete to concrete in a single post. How much water do you need to add to postcrete.
It depends upon how permeable the underlying ground is but aim for the hole to be half full. As a general rule two thirds of a bucket or 3 gallons is enough to hydrate two 20ky bags of postcrete. How do you line up a gate post?
The best way to line up a gate post with a fence line is with a tight string line. Set up the tight string along the line of the fence, and then set your post flush with it. The best way to set posts straight is fixing long straight sections of timber across posts. This also allows posts to set perfectly inline overnight with no threat of disturbance. How far apart should gate posts be?
A standard distance between gate posts is a standard gate distance of around 900mm. Any narrower than that and future access for certain things could be restricted. Any larger than a metre, could mean heavy gates and eventual bowing of posts.
Thank you for reading our article on how to install timber gate posts for wooden gates. Below I will link to some other articles you may find useful in your search.
If you require fencing or gate post installation do not hesitate to contact us. Based in Amersham we undertake a wide range of garden landscape projects. Our landscaping services include; brickwork, paving, pathways, edging installation, fencing, drainage systems, landscape design, garden clearances, new lawns garden re-levelling, ponds, wildlife gardens and gravel installation. We cover most of Buckinghamshire including Hertfordshire, Oxfordshire and the local regions of Amersham, Aylesbury, Beaconsfield, Chesham, Chalfont Great Missenden, Gerrards cross, High Wycombe & Tring.
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Achieving the best looking lawn possible does not just rely upon a strict mowing regime. There are many things that go into the perfect lawn with good edging being a much understated factor. Edging can frame your lawn whilst also making mowing and trimming much easier. Selecting the best lawn edgings for mowing will result in no more edge trimming or strimming. In this article I will explain the typical attributes of the best lawn edging for effortless cutting. I will also list and summarise 8 of the best lawn edgings for easy mowing and maintenance. What is the best edging for making mowing easier?
The best lawn edgings for mowing allow you to mow edges reaching every blade of grass with no need for edge trimming. Edgings should be at least 60mm wide so mowers can hover over the edgings to capture every blade. The most effective edgings should also have a retaining and levelling function to your lawn. The best scenario is to install robust and level edgings before you lay your lawn. This way soil can be spread perfectly level to the top of the edgings. The result is a level lawn with no dips or bows leading to easier cutting and better drainage. The most effective edging for mowing should be retaining edging that holds your lawn securely in place. This will prevent loosing lawn to flower borders and scalping to edges. 8 Of the best lawn edgings for mowing
Brick on edge mow strips
Bricks are hardwearing materials with natural colour tones that work well in garden landscaping. When laid upon a compacted base and solid mortar bed they make perfect lawn edgings for mowing. These edgings can be set flush with an existing lawns level to create a seamless mowing edge. This is often referred to as a brick mow strip. Granite setts
Granite setts are robust cubes of granite utilised for a multitude of external applications. Historically Setts were used to surface streets, pavements and walkways which give testament to their durability. Granite setts are weather resistant with their light colours providing excellent contrast to garden lawns. These materials are a great way to lay straight or curved lawn edgings for perfect mowing. Paving mow strips
Standard concrete and natural stone paving is also a great edging material for lawns. Paving slabs can be cut down into strips, blocks or even setts to create visually appealing mow strips. These are most effective when laying a new lawn as you can spread topsoil to the top. This results in your turf being perfectly flush with your edgings providing the perfectly level mowing edge. Flush timber edging
Treated timber edgings laid flush with your lawn also make great lawn edgings for mowing. Timber edging is also much cheaper and faster to lay than masonry edging materials. If you want curved timber edging then treated gravel boards are probably the best option. These can be scored and persuaded to form organic curves and even circles. For straight timber mow edging treated 6x2 timber is normally the best option. Block pavers
Block paving is a standard concrete paving material typically used for driveways. However, its popularity has led to an explosion of various different types, textures, colours and styles. This has made block paving a much more interesting option for creating lawn mow edgings. These blocks can be laid to the perimeter of your lawn on a well compacted sub-base and mortar bed. Concrete mow strip edging
When it comes to concrete mow strip edging there are many products available on the market. These typically consist of concrete path or pc edgings which are around 1 metre long. At 150mm deep these can provide an effective retaining edge to lawns with a clean and modern feel. Concrete mow strips are typically concreted into position within a concrete haunch. The disadvantage with these is they are only 50mm thick; some mowers may not overhang enough to cut efficiently. Rubber Lawn edging
Rubber lawn edging comes in a range of products with popular examples including Flexi-border. I personally am never a fan of synthetic, plastic based, materials for landscaping but there are some advantages. These borders are very flexible and durable resulting in less chance of shrinking and cracking. These are also very easy to remove or move around as and when you need them. Flexible metal edgingFlexible metal edging has now become a very popular lawn edging material. This contemporary style edging very much fits into current modern styled gardens. These edgings make great mow strips but only when set back from vertical steps, borders and walls. In such scenarios the gap between vertical features can be filled with decorative gravels.
Thank you for reading my article on 8 of the best lawn edgings for mowing. Below I will link to some other articles you may also find useful.
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Hedges can be an effective way to create garden screening, structure and natural boundaries.
Hedges however can have an impact upon the surrounding ground especially next to grass lawns. Hedges next to grass can shade the edge of lawns and draw water and nutrients away from them. Consequently it is best to install a suitable edging to separate hedges roots from lawn areas. In this article I identify and summarise 8 of the best garden edgings seperating from hedging to grass. What is the best edging between hedging and grass?
The best edging from hedging to grass will provide a robust root barrier, clean mowing edge and help retain soil. Optimum edging will also be thick enough to prevent grass encroachment and blend well with surrounding landscaping. Below I have listed 8 edgings suitable for edging between hedges and grass. 8 edgings effective between hedges and grass
1. Brick edgingsBricks provide a robust and durable edging material which easily matches most garden styles. Because bricks are made from fired clay they do not rely upon colour dyes for their appearance. This makes them look appealing for decades without the threat of fading colours. Brick edging can provide a robust separation between grass and hedging roots. They can also be laid in numerous arrangements to retain soil and create mow strips. Why not visit our article on the best bricks for landscaping here. 2. Path edgings
Path edging kerbs are linear pre-cast concrete kerbs typically 1 metre by 150mm. At around 25mm thick (1 inch) path edgings come in a range of styles and designs. Standard kerbs typically come in a basic rectangular shape. These are very effective at creating clean separation lines between grass and hedging. Their 150mm thickness also makes them suitable for raised edging retaining soil between hedge and lawn. 3. Block paving
Block paving is a concrete paver typically utilised for surfacing driveways. However these versatile concrete paving units are also very effective for garden edging. These blocks are dense, durable and weather resistant coming in a wide range of colours and styles. When laid upon a generous mortar bed and sub-base they provide extremely robust borders. Block pavers, like brick, can create the perfect mowing edge where hedges meet lawn. I personally think the best block paving for garden edging is Marshalls Tegula which featured in the image below. 4. Kerb edgings
Kerb edgings come in a broad range of robust edging products typically designed for driveways. These edging blocks are traditionally used to edge borders, steps and pathways. Kerb edgings have a significant mass and depth which make them very suitable for retaining features. This makes them perfect for forming a separation line between hedge roots and lawns. Kerb edgings can create effective raised edgings around hedges helping to retain soils and mulches. 5. Granite setts
Granite setts have been utilised within landscaping and external surfacing for thousands of years. These robust cubes made of solid granite are both extremely durable and weather resistant. Their light grey and speckled appearance creates a visual contrast to lawns, soil and mulches. Laid as edging granite sets can make a very effective separation border between lawns and hedges. 6. Cut paving
The great thing about paving slabs is they can be cut to any form or shape. This means they are perfect for producing affordable and fast, flush edging to lawns and borders. Cut paving is perfect if you wish to create strip and mowing edge paving between lawns and hedging. Natural stone edgings are particularly effective at providing colour contrast to lawns. This is especially so when using materials such as porcelain and black slate. 7. Timber
Timber edging is one of the most universal and affordable materials for installing edging. Not only is timber affordable it is also fast and relatively easy to install. The best timber edging for between lawns and hedging is thicktreated timber. Thinner timber boards may not only degrade in time the roots of hedges can force them to buckle. Thicker grades of timber such assleepers are typically best installed between lawns and hedges. 8. Metal edgings
Most metal garden edgings on the market are flexible which is great for forming curves! However larger hedge roots can grow under the edging lifting it out of the ground. Consequently it is best to use the thicker metal edgings between lawns and hedging. The minimum width should be around 2.5mm making a product such as core edge the best option.
Thank you for reading our article on the best edging from hedges to grass. I will leave some other articles you may also find useful below.
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Picket fences can provide an aesthetic boundary to your property without creating too much shade. These low level and airy fences are the perfect way to define your property without blocking views. Their vertical and narrow slats act as a precarious obstacle to wondering feet but also look elegant and neat. It is no surprise that pickets have become one of the most favourite fences for front gardens and narrow back yards. Picket fences now come in a wide range of panel styles lengths and heights. In this article I will explain how to install picket fence panels regardless of which type you choose. I will cover everything from setting up your line to installing on a slope, setting posts and fixing panels. Find my step by step guide on how to install picket fence panels below. Tools you will need
Spade
Post diggers Spirit level Wood saw Tape measure String line Wheel barrow Hand Drill Claw hammer Shopping list
Postcrete
Timber posts External grade screws Picket panels How to install picket fence panels step by stepStep 1: Set up your line
One of the most important starting points for erecting any new boundary is setting up your line. This involves setting up a tight string line so it matches the boundary you are working too. Try to set your line about 500mm from the ground, this will ensure you do not accidently sever your line as you dig. Make sure your picket fence line is free from vegetation and obstructions. Step 2: Check your levels
More often than not you may find that you are laying your picket fence upon sloping ground. If so, you will have to step up your panel slightly as you travel up or down hill. Before you start building, examine your levels to see how drastic level changes are. It is always best to keep step ups or downs consistent throughout the fence line. Step 3: Work out cut locations
When installing picket panels it is inevitable you will have to cut some panels down at one end. Try to work out which end of your fence will be less visible and place the cuts at that end. If a cut ends on an individual picket you may need to price the pickets off and re-space them evenly between the cut. Step 3: Install your first post
The first thing to do is install your first post so it is set firm. Excavate a post hole so you have a minimum of 3 inches of concrete around the circumference of the post. Try to make your post hole between 500-600mm deep with no loose soil at the bottom. Either concrete your post in or use rapid setting postcrete. Postcrete is much faster! Simply fill your hole with water halfway and pour postcrete around the post. Make sure your post will reach the correct height for your panel and is set in plumb and level. Step 4: Offer up your first Panel
Make sure your first post is relatively secure and then offer up the first picket panel. Observe the lie of the ground below the post, is it sloping? If so you may have to wedge the panel up to make it sit level and flush against the post. You do not want any of the panel touching the soil, raised it up with some makeshift wedges. Step 5: Fix panel to your first post
When your first panel is at the correct height and level, fix it to your first post. If you are using morticed posts and slotted panels slot the panels into the posts and fix them with screws. If you are using solid posts and straight edge panels offer them flush and screw the rails to the post. You can also attach fencing brackets to make fixing easier. Step 6: Excavate second posthole
Using your string line as a guide mark out where your next post will be located. Now you can excavate out for your next post, taking care not to disturb the string line. Once again make your excavation as clean as possible with no loose material left in the hole. Step 7: Fix panel to your second post
Now place your second post into your posthole, it should offer up to the first panel perfectly. Make sure the height of the post correlates well with the picket panel. Now check the vertical level and its correlation to the string line. When these line up, you can fix your panel to the second post. Step 8: Concrete in your second post
Using postcrete, concrete your second post so it is plumb and level with the string line. Step 9: Repeat the process
Keep repeating this process until you reach the end of your picket fence. You will probably need to cut down a panel at each end and fix the cut panel between two end posts. Step 10: Gate installation
If you need to install a gate to your picket fence you have two options. Either buy a pre-made gate or make a gate out of the picket panels. This is not as difficult as it sounds! You will just need to strengthen the section of picket with some timber braces. When you have created your new gate, set two gate posts within the fence line where you want the entrance. The posts should be a gate width apart with an extra 3mm on either side so the gate swings freely. Gate hinges and a bolt lock can then be fitted to the gate. FAQS
Can you install a picket fence yourself?There is absolutely no reason why you cannot install a picket fence yourself! Like any new skill you will always make mistakes at first! However you will soon pick up a good process and experience as you go along. What are the best fixings for picket fences?Screws are best for fixing picket panels to posts. Screws allows you to unscrew panels if they ever need to be moved or adjusted in any way. However the vertical pickets I find better to fix down with nails if you are making whole panels. Should my fence pickets touch the ground?
Picket fences should be raised slightly off the ground or set on top of a gravel board. This is to prevent pickets from becoming too damp and rotting. What are the advantages of a picket fence?
Picket fences provide a robust and secure boundary without creating too much shade. They are an attractive way to fence off gardens while allowing good airflow and light penetration.
Thank you for reading our article on how to install a picket fence! Below I have linked to some other articles you may find useful.
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Timber fence panels have provided a fast and affordable way to put up robust and attractive boundaries for decades.
Today, fence panels come in a wide variety of styles, colours and sizes. Timber panels can give a clean and effective way to provide security and screening to your property. Although timber panels are more affordable that building masonry walls they can still be costly to install. Consequently, many decide to put up panel fences themselves. Installing wooden fence panels with posts is not difficult; however there are some pitfalls if you have no experience. In this article I will explain how to install a panel fence step by step with pictures. With over 20 years experience installing fences I will provide some expert advice and insightful tips along the process. I will illuminate general considerations and answer typical questions about timber fence panel installation. Considerations of installing a fenceBefore starting your fence installation there are few considerations you need to think about. Who owns the fence?
It is very common for one neighbour to own one side of your fence and you to own the other. Therefore, legally you are only obliged to replace the fence which comes under your authority. This can sometimes be problematic if you have neighbours or tenants who don’t have the money to replace their side. Either way, if you need to replace a fallen fence, communication and courtesy is the best approach. Find out who owns the fence and discuss your proposals so a consensus is reached. Unintended consequences
When replacing a fence there are often some unintended consequences of undertaking the work. A common problem is breaking out old posts along a neighbour’s patio line. Patios are occasionally paved right up to the fence line. This can result in next doors paving becoming broken and difficult to repair in a matching fashion. It is always good to have a peak over the existing fence first to expose any potential issues. Some other snags include trees growing on the boundary and old dilapidated sheds leaning on fence posts. When the fence is removed the shed collapses causing a dilemma. Some of these are rare but it is always worth predicting potential problems before you start. This way you can run the scenarios over with your neighbour before you begin. Neighbours & Boundaries
It is surprising just how possessive some get over very small amounts of land in regard to boundaries. Some sources claim you should check land registry deeds before replacing a fence. I personally think this can be a bad idea leading to misinterpretations of the boundaries. I would not do this unless there is obviously something questionable about the existing boundary. If the existing boundary has existed for years with no disputes erect the fence to the exact line, simple! Once again, discuss this with your neighbour first to extinguish any issues before the work commences. Health & Safety
Putting up a panel fence is generally a safe operation. Before you start digging deep holes try to make sure you aren’t excavating on top of services. I have to say it would be extremely rare for such services to run under a site boundary. Nonetheless keep an eye out for warning tape or buried cables as you dig. It is advised to always wear tough gloves and steel toe cap boots while installing fence posts. Tools for building a fence
Shopping list
How to install a timber panel fence step by step
Step 1: Existing fence removal
When putting up a new fence it is easy to underestimate the task of taking down the old fence. An old fence may look dilapidated but it will amount to a substantial amount of material. Make sure you allow extra time and capacity to take down and remove the old fence. Step 2: Ground clearance
It is typical for old fence lines to be littered with tree saplings, broken fence posts and other obstacles. Before you begin it is a good idea to clear the boundary of any perennial weeds or roots. It is also a good idea to level any bumps or level changes along the fence line. Step 3: Setting up your line
Before you begin you should set up a string line to identify the run of the boundary. Not all boundaries are perfectly straight! However a string line will allow you to get a feel for any imperfections to the boundary. Step 4: Marking post holesMark your first post hole with line marker paint, aim for around 100mm of concrete around your post. Step 5: Excavating first post hole
Start excavating your first post hole, the best tools for this are a spade, grafting bar and post diggers. Aim for a clean and circular post hole around 600mm deep. Step 6: Concreting first post
Place your first post into the hole making sure it is vertically level (plumb) while touching the string line. This is a good opportunity to measure the height of your post from the ground level. You want enough height for the post and gravel board with about 50mm extra on top. Step 7: Installing first gravel board
Mark on your post where the top of the gravel board is to be situated. If you are using 6ft panels this will be about 6ft 2inches (1,850mm). This allows you 6ft for the panel and two extra inches so your posts are proud of the panel tops. Offer up your gravel board to the first post and wedge it into position level. Concrete posts and gravel boards can be slot into position, for timber you will need to screw gravel boards to posts. This can be achieved by attaching cleats to the posts with screws. Cleats are small cuts of timber which allow gravel boards a firm fixing base to posts. This process can be seen in the image below. Step 8: Fixing your first panel
When your gravel board is fixed level, the panel can be perched on top. Push the panel tightly up against the post and screw it into position. Fix the panel within the centre of the post with an even gap all the way up the post. External grade screws can be used to fix the panel frame straight into the timber posts. Alternatively you can install fencing slot brackets to each post. Make sure your panel and gravel board is lined up well with your string line! You can now prepare the next post hole. Step 9: Excavate next post whole
Start excavating your second post hole, the best tools for this are a spade, grafting bar and post diggers. Aim for a clean and circular post hole around 600mm deep with no loose material inside the excavation. Step 10: Offer up second post
Offer up your second post so it meets your gravel board and panel nice and flush. Make sure your post meets the string line when the post is vertically level. Step 11: Fix panel
Check your level and fix your cleat, gravel board and panel to the second post securely. It is best to fix 4, 80mm screws at even intervals along the height of the panel. Step 12: Concrete second post
When your post is in position concrete it in securely, this is best done using postcrete. Fill the post hole with water half way and pour one bag around the hole. Using a long stick or ‘pokey stick’ swirl and mix the dry mix with the water well. The mix should start to set within the first five minutes making it easy to level your post. Fill your post hole until it is well filled with concrete, (about two 20kg bags). Step 13: Repeat the process
Now repeat the process all the way along your fence line until you reach the end. It is very common to have an irregular cut at the end of the fence line. You will have to install a post to the far end and cut down a panel to fit the gap. Step 14 Cutting down panels
Although cutting down a panel may seem like advanced carpentry it is really very easy! The most important thing is to measure carefully and cut slowly. Make sure you measure both the top gap and lower gap and draw a line between them. This can be achieved with a carpenters pencil and a long (2 metre) spirit level.
Once your panel is cut neatly, you can prize off the clamping beads from the cut off end. This can be done gently using a claw hammer or crow-bar.
The beads can then be overlapped the cut end and fixed into position. Your cut down panel can now be screwed in between the two end posts.
Your fence is now complete!
FAQ’SDo you need planning permission for a new fence?
When it comes to planning permission there is never a one size fits all answer. However, I will list some general guidelines on at least the likely hood of needing permission. If you are installing a new fence where one did not stand before it is likely you will need planning permission. When changing the height of an existing fence, particularly higher it is likely permission should be sought. Generally it is not an issue unless you go above 2 metres tall. Any taller than two metres means blocking neighbours light can become an issue. If your fence borders a public road or highway permission should be sought for major alterations. What do you put under fence panels?
It is always a good idea to install gravel boards under timber fence panels. These keep panels elevated, aerated and away from loose soil sitting against them. For most timber fences 150mm treated timber gravel boards are best. Is it easy to install a fence?
Generally the practice and principle of erecting a fence is easy. However in practice there are many scenarios which can make it challenging. Old fences covered in thick ivy can make installing new fences difficult. Such old fences can be very heavy and difficult to remove. The ivy will need to be cut into sections and all the stumps and roots removed from the soil. It is also very common for new post holes to be directly over old concreted posts. This means you have to individually break out each individual block of concrete. Consider moving the positions of your posts by adding a cut panel at each end to avoid this. Can you install a fence on your own?
You can certainly install a fence on your own if you install one post and panel at a time. However erecting a fence in this way can be awkward and tricky at the best of times. A good tip is to put the fence up in summer during dry weather. When the panels are dry they are much lighter and easy to work on your own. Storing your panels standing at an angle also helps them to dry out faster. Should fence posts be higher than panels?It is always advisable to set posts in a little higher than panels. I normally aim for them to be about 50mm higher than the panels. Should a fence be level or follow the ground?
It is never a good idea to try to follow the ground level with a panel fence. If your panels are not level across the top your posts will be at an angle. This will not only look odd but the structure will not be as robust and sturdy. When installing on a slope you need to step he panels up or down according to the gradient. Can you attach fence panels to an existing fence?
It really is not a good idea to attach a new fence panel to an existing fence. It will add extra weight and burden to the existing posts. This can result in the posts breaking and the existing fence collapsing. Who should get the good side of a fence?
Theoretically you should give your neighbour the good side of the fence. Traditionally this has meant every garden has one good side and one less attractive side. However, it really does depend upon the specific situation and orientation of neighbouring properties.
Thank you for reading our article on how to put up a fence with timber panels! Below I will link to some other articles you may find informative.
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Garden ponds are one of the most effective ways to encourage wildlife into your garden.
Not only do ponds create excellent habitats for wetland species they also provide drinking water for other creatures. For the nature enthusiast a wildlife pond can create hours of both entertainment and study. A successful wildlife pond will host multiple wetland habitats and contain varying depths and shelves. It is also beneficial if your pond looks as natural as possible within the landscape! This will look best visually and provide as much reassurance and security to wildlife. In this article I will explain how to build a natural looking wildlife pond step by step. I will include images of previous ponds I have built within wildlife garden landscaping projects. Planning your pond
One of the main factors to consider when planning a pond is its shape. The best ponds for wildlife have a deep central zone which has a large volume. This deep zone keeps the ponds water temperature stable during hot summers. It also provides a collection pit for inevitable amounts of dirt and organic debris which will accumulate within the pond. Try to plan for at least one gentle slope leading out of your pond. This will provide easy access for amphibians and warm shallows for aquatic insects. You will want to pan your pond with plenty of varying shelves and depths. It is a good idea to sketch up a basic design of the profile of your pond before begin excavating. The image below is of a wildlife pond I built in Buckinghamshire to give you a look at the shape. Positioning your pond
Positioning your pond so it is the most beneficial to wildlife as possible is paramount. It is always better to locate a pond where there is the best access to surrounding habitats. This typically means closest to green corridors and garden boundaries. Wildlife prefers to have a sheltered access from the pond to other parts of the garden. A pond slap bang in the middle of a patio may look nice but may be problematic for some species. It is advantageous to integrate a wildlife pond within a well planned, planting scheme. Try to position your pond away from the canopies of large trees to prevent leaf clogging in autumn. It is best to locate your pond where it gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day. This will enable pond plants to thrive and submerged plants to boost oxygen levels. How big should you build a wildlife pond?As a general rule the larger a pond you build the better it is for wildlife! Do not underestimate however the benefit even very small ponds provide. The trick is to ensure your pond has enough volume to host a stable environment. Very small and shallow ponds can become very warm in summer and freeze right through in winter. For small ponds you should really aim for a minimum depth of 450mm. However in a perfect world you will have a larger pond with a sizable deep zone of 1 metre. This will allow for a large body of water which has a stable and consistent temperature. It is optimum to incorporate multiple shelves at varying depths to cater for a broad range of species. A gentle sloping section can create 'warm shallows' which are beneficial to specialised species. I would say a good average size for a wildlife pond is 3 x 5 metres and about a metre deep. Pond safety
Pond safety can always be a consideration especially where children are concerned. I always recommend fencing off your pond not just for children but for wildlife too! A 1.2 metre tall perimeter picket fence can provide added security to wildlife and increase safety. A picket fence will give a feeling of privacy and reduce the chance of wildlife being disturbed by pets. Enclosed wildlife ponds also lend themselves to more quiet study and relaxation than open ponds. How to build a natural looking wildlife pond step by step
Step 1: Excavation
Excavate your pond from the centre outwards digging the deepest section first. This makes it easier to gently dig in your shelves and slopes into your ponds profile. Digging with a digger is good for large ponds but can be messy. You may need to hire a skilled operator for excavating neat shelves and slopes. I find its best to use excavators when it’s warm and dry. If your garden is wet you can end up making a real mess! Step 2: Spoil removal
It’s easy to get carried away with the actual digging of the pond and not the spoil removal. Excavating ponds can create a large amount of bulky subsoil. This is best loaded into a skip using a wheel barrow. Alternatively you can use the spoil to fill in garden low spots and create mounds. Step 3: Shaping your pond
Shaping your pond can be tricky especially if you have never done it before. Combining sheer force and sculpting out consistent shelves and slopes can be difficult. The best tools for this are spades, mattocks and digging bars for tough ground. Step 4: Levelling your sides
To make your wildlife pond look as natural as possible you need to create level sides. This will allow the water level to completely hide your pond liner. I like to tap timber pegs level all the way around the perimeter of the pond. You can do this with a club hammer and a long spirit level. Then mix up some stiff concrete and create a level plinth all the way around the pond. This will enable you to lap your liner over the concrete and into the anchor trench. Step 5: Digging an anchor trench
An anchor trench is a perimeter trench around your pond that anchors your liner firmly into position. You need to excavate a narrow trench about 150mm wide and 200 deep around the outside of your pond. This will enable you to bury the liner when the pond has been filled with water. Step 6: Smoothing verticalsAfter shaping your ponds slopes and shelves you will need to check the vertical parts of the ponds profile. You want to make sure there are no sharp protrusions present which may puncture the liner. This is not such a problem on soft clay but can be an issue on rocky soils such as flints. In such case you will want to smooth out the verticals with a cement based render. This can be seen from our latest wildlife pond project in the image below the next paragraph. Step 7: Softening depths & shelves
In a similar fashion the bottom of the pond also needs some softening from protrusions. Even with a robust under-liner installed softening the base of the depths and shelves is always advised. This is best achieved with a 25mm (1 inch) layer of soft builder’s sand. Step 8: Laying your underlay
Lay your underlay to the surface profile of your wildlife pond. Try to push any slack into every bulge and shelf of the pond. Step 9: Laying your liner
Roll out and open up your pond liner fully next to the pond. Then lower the liner gently into the pond, this is best done with two people. Hold the liner at each end and walk it over the centre of the pond. Gently lower the liner into the void and mould it into position. Step 10: Filling your pond
In a perfect world a wildlife pond would be filled with rainwater. However, in most cases this is not realistic so tap water can be used to fill it. Run your hose into the base of the pond and allow it to slowly fill. In a substantially sized pond this can take a while! Let the weight of the water push your liner flat along the ponds profile. Keep running the tap until the water meets the top of the level perimeter. Step 11: Anchoring liner
Cut the excess liner away making sure you have enough excess to fold into the anchor trench. Fold the excess liner into the anchor trench and back fill the trench with consolidated soil. Step 12: Soiling edges
Gently grade soil around the top of the pond where the liner meets the anchor trench. Try to slope and consolidate the topsoil so it looks as natural as possible. Your sides should slope gently enough so soil can be spread under the water line. Step 13: Planting your pondNow that you have created your natural looking wildlife pond you can start to plant it. You can plant native wetland species into the pond itself using perforated baskets and aquatic topsoil. Plants beneficial to wildlife can then be planted around the outside of the pond and watered well. Making your wildlife ponds sides look naturalThe most effective way of making the sides of your pond look natural is with a gradual gradient. By gently sloping your sides up to the waterline soil can grade down into the shallows. It is common for wildlife ponds to be incorrectly built with steep cliffs around the sides. This is not good both visually, or for wildlife. Furthermore exposed plastics and liners can be subject to degradation from sunlight overtime. To get your sides sloping correctly, excavate your pond a little wider than you need by about 200mm.
You then need to create a perfectly level plinth all the way around the pond. I find the best way to do this is with a strong concrete fillet about 100mm thick.
You can then form a gentle slope down from the level fillet with more concrete and a trowel. The liner will fold over the concrete resulting in the water level reaching the top of the concrete. This means when full the water will cover any exposed pond liner.
You can then gently fill soil around your edges to fill around the gentle slope. This is best achieved before the last section of the pond is filled to prevent over silting.
You then have the option to lay turf or even wildflower turf around the ponds edges. This is where you can let your creative juices flow! A ponds edges can be landscaped with rocks, dead wood and planting to make them look more natural! Should you add soil to your pond?
There is some debate about whether or not you should add soil to your new wildlife pond. There is no doubt a little soil initially is fine and actually beneficial to wildlife. However for smaller ponds in particular it is wise to not add too much soil, at least initially. If you put too much soil inside your pond you could find it becomes very overgrown too quickly! In a natural wetland a series of different depths and animal life keep plant communities in check. However, in smaller ponds these can soon take over if they have too much sediment. It is always best to plant up your new pond in planting baskets, at least initially.
This can help contain pond plants without them turning into an overgrown marsh. Your pond will naturally accumulate a soil base from airborne dust, and organic particles.
A little soil submerged around the edges is ok; too much can lead to cloudiness and aggressive plant growth. If you are going to add soil to your pond add nutrient poor soil such asaquatic compost. Using fertile garden soil or compost will lead to excessive algae, minimal oxygen and stagnancy. The larger your pond is the more acceptable it is to add some loose soil to its depths. My advice would be, start small and plant in baskets first. It is very hard to remove soil and robust root masses once they are established. Create a gravel beach
Having gentle sloping shallows in your pond can provide an opportunity for a gravel beach. This is where you lay pebbles into the shallows that emerge onto a pebble beach. Pebbles can be based with landscape fabric to create a plant free zone at one end. This can become an attractive feature which allows for clear views over the pond. The gaps within the pebbles create the perfect hiding places for aquatic insects and tadpoles. Below is an image of such a pebble we created in our last wildlife garden pond project. Planting in your wildlife pond
Some of the first plants you should establish in your pond are oxygenators. These are normally long and thin pond plants like ‘HornWort’. These can be anchored to the bottom of your pond to root within the sediment. The best way to do this is by tying the base of the plants to small stones. This helps them to anchor them to the bottom securely while they root. These plants will gradually begin to release oxygen into the water as they photosynthesise. The next stage is to plant some larger plants into your wildlife garden. Pond plants are typically characterised by their growing level in relation to waterline.
Marginal plants inhabit a ponds edge while submerged plants grow under the surface. A good range of diversity is always advised when planting a wildlife pond.
For maximum wildlife benefit try to stick to pond plants native to your country or region. I typically plant one water Lilly and many marginal’s to the shallows. This provides plenty of security to creatures leaving and entering the pond. Pond plants are naturally very aggressive growers so it is best to plant in perforated baskets. Make sure you use nutrient poor soil so your pond isn’t susceptible to algae blooms. Planting around your pond
When planting a wildlife pond the planting around the waters edge is just as important as the plants inside. Dense vegetation around the pond will provide plenty of security for wildlife. Groundcover plants are a really great choice as they provide dense vegetation without blocking out light.
A wildflower meadow leading up to the ponds edge is very effective for making a pond look natural.
Native plants or ecological planting which attracts beneficial insects are also a good idea! For a sunny pond flowering herbs such as fennel, rosemary, thyme and mint are great for pollinators. For frogs and newts plant large leaved plants like Bergenia and Rhubarb to provide damp shade. Creating shelter around your pond
Another great way to make your pond attractive to wildlife is to create shelter. This can be as simple as some log piles or even manmade burrows. Dry stone wall structures are really effective for creating hiding places for small creatures. Newts particularly like to shelter in the warm and damp crevices inside the wall. Hibernacula’s can also be put together in-between planted areas. These are simply masses of vegetation, sticks, old masonry and soil which create nesting opportunities for small creatures. Wildlife pond maintenance
During warm weather you may find that pond weed can become quite overgrown. This can be removed by wrapping it around a stick and pulling it out of the pond. After a few years you may notice that pond plants will become overgrown. It is always good to clear out excess vegetation when it gets too extensive! As a general rule you will want a decent amount of visible open water. This will enable sunlight to penetrate the depths and keep oxygenators active. Every few years get into the pond and reduce the size of plants. Try not to use sharp tools and risk puncturing the liner.
Thank you for reading our article on how to make a wildlife pond.
If you require wildlife pond design and build services please do not hesitate to contact me. We cover most of Buckinghamshire and surrounding counties, we now also cover Norfolk. Although most of our wildlife pond projects are undertaken locally around the towns of; Aylesbury, Amersham, High Wycombe, Beaconsfield, Berkhamsted and Chesham. Below I will link to some other articles you may find useful.
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Building raised beds in your backyard can have multiple benefits for your gardening endeavours.
Firstly, raised beds give you have more control over your soils quality and fertility. A deeper and better quality soil means both larger and healthier plants. Although building raised beds is normally a straight forward process, sloping ground can be problematic. Any retaining structure should always be built square and level for maximum stability. Therefore the question presents itself; how do you build raised beds on a slope? There are actually a couple of ways to build raised beds on a slope with timber and sleepers. For brick, block and masonry materials there is only really one way. In this article I will explain how to build raised beds on a slope step by step. The problem with raised beds on sloping groundOne of the main problems with raised beds on sloping ground is moisture and nutrient distribution. I learned this from personal experience in my own vegetable garden. I initially built my raised beds to the gradient of a slope to save time and money. However the problem was the plants at the lower end always grew better than those at the higher end. This was because both nutrients and moisture were running towards the lowest end. Consequently, it is always best to build your raised beds level upon a slope. Furthermore level raised beds look much more aesthetic and orderly within a garden space than sloped. How to make your raised bed level on sloping groundFundamentally the best way to build raised beds on sloping ground is to excavate into the slope to form a level base. This means one side of your bed will be slightly buried while the other is standing proud of the lowest point. This way you can have multiple, level, raised beds stepped up and down the landscape. Create a level concrete foundation
The best way to build raised beds level on any slope is to create a level perimeter foundation with concrete. If you are building raised beds with brick, rocks or concrete blocks you will need this anyway. Even with timber sleepers however, a firm and level base will make beds stronger and easier to build. How to build a raised bed on a slope with concrete, or rocks
The best way to build a raised bed on a slope with masonry materials is to excavate a stepped foundation into the slope. A concrete foundation can then be laid and stepped 100mm under the sloping ground level. Blocks can then be built into the slope to create a level raised bed. How to build a raised bed on a slope with sleepers
If you want to build a raised bed on a slope with sleepers the same idea applies. It is best to excavate a level platform first into the slope. However, if this is too much digging for you there is another way for timber beds. This involves lifting one end up opposed to burying the bed at the high end of the slope. You will have to fix your elevated end to strong timber posts and then fill in the lower sides later. Below I will show you how to build a raised bed this way, step by step with pictures. Step 1: Positioning
The first step when building raised beds is to plan out and decide their positioning. It is always best to position beds in full sun within reach of a water source. Positioning raised beds on a slope will be easier if they run across the gradient. This will enable them to step down in a terrace fashion helping to retain the slope. It will also mean less laborious excavation into the front of the slope. Step 2: Marking out
Mark out the position of your new beds with line marker paint or string lines.
Step 3: Setting levels
Get an idea of your levels by pegging out along the slope with timber pegs and a long spirit level. Step 4: Setting out Sleepers
When building raised beds with sleepers it is effective to set out your timber lengths first. You want as little wastage as possible so try to make your beds the length or width of a full sleeper. When you have set out your raised beds you can start marking your cuts. Step 5: Cutting Sleepers
Measure and mark your cuts squarely and accurately so your sleepers fit together well. Step 6: Fixing your base frame
When you have your first course cut you are ready to fix your sleepers together. Place sections you need to fix together on a flat and level surface. Drill pilot holes from one sleeper into the adjoin section. Then fix them securely together using robust timber lock, hexagonal head screws and a power drill. For mid-length section joins brace sleepers together with 25mm x 150mm gravel boards and external grade screws. Step 7: Levelling your Base frame
You will now need to raise up the lower end of your base frame to make it level. Lever up your low end with a spade or iron bar and wedge it up until its level. Wedge up your frame with concrete blocks or bricks to hold it up level. The height of your wedges will depend upon how steep your slope is. Step 8: Fixing your Base frame
Once your frame is level you will need to fix it into position. The best way to do this is by installing 75mm thick timber posts to the raised up corners. Excavate post holes down at least 400mm deep into the soil. Fix the sleepers into the posts so they are vertically level and concrete them in withpost-crete. When your posts have set you will have a free standing and level raised bed. Step 9: Building your beds
Now your bed is raised up level, complete the building process by adding any additional courses. Make sure any joins between sleepers are layered over by full sections to create stability. Fix down your sleepers securely with timber-lock screws. Step 10: Filling in bottom gaps
Although there is little excavation for this method of building raised beds on slopes there is a glitch. You will have to brace angled timber cuts to the raised up sides of your structure. To fix them securely you may need to concrete in more vertical posts to the raised end. Once you have cut in the infills neatly and secured them you can fill up your beds. Step 11: Fill up your raised beds
Now your sleeper raised beds are completed you can fill them with soil. This is best undertaken using a scaffold board, wheel barrow and rake.
Why not visit our article on what is the best soil for raised beds here. FAQ’sCan you put a raised bed on a slope?
You can certainly put raised beds on a slope if you want to. However, if you run the bed to the sloping ground it will create unbalanced growing conditions. You may find plants grow better at the lower end of the slope than the higher end. This is because gravity will pull water and nutrients to the lower end of the bed. Consequently you are better off building level beds on sloping ground. Do raised beds need to be perfectly level?
Raised beds do not have to be ‘perfectly level’, however it is best to build them as level as possible.
This is particularly so if you have many beds together or level structures and buildings in the background. If your beds are not level the human eye may pick up upon the imperfections.
Thank you for reading our article on how to build raised beds on a slope. If you require raised bed building services please do not hesitate to contact me.
We build sleeper, brick and concrete raised garden beds. We cover most of Buckinghamshire with typical projects in; Amersham, Chalfont's, Aylesbury, High Wycombe, Beaconsfield Chesham and Berkhamsted. I have linked to some other articles below you may also find useful.
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There is nothing more exciting than making a wildlife garden and watching wildlife move in!
Perhaps you're a nature lover and want to create a wildlife haven in your backyard. Or maybe a gardener that wants to create more ecological balance for a healthier environment. Whatever your motivations, I have compiled a list of 23 ways to make your wildlife garden as rich and diverse as possible.
From implementing rare habitats to harnessing microclimate and providing shelter, you'll find it in this article.
By creating your own wildlife sanctuary from this list you will not only be creating a great garden! You will also be playing an important role in local conservation. So let’s dive in and discover how to bring nature closer to your home with our top 23 ways to make a wildlife garden. 1. Native plantingThe interdependence of native flora and fauna was long misunderstood and underestimated. Local wildlife has evolved alongside local plants and soils for millennia in natural balance. This makes choosing native plants for your wildlife garden of upmost importance. Local wildflowers, shrubs and trees will provide the perfect habitat for creatures in your region. Don’t forget there are also some non native pants also great for wildlife too! 2. Hibernacula’sHibernaculas are a collection of natural materials placed together to form nesting and shelter for garden wildlife. Layers of rocks, logs, vegetation and earth are piled up to provide cosy crevices for wildlife. Many small mammals, reptiles, amphibians and insects need such places to nest, breed and hide during the winter months. In the image below displays an example of a Hibernacula I built for a school wildlife garden in West London. 3. Fruit trees
Not only are fruit trees a great food resource, they are also extremely beneficial for wildlife. Being mainly smaller than most trees fruit trees are quite easy to plant in averaged sized gardens. As they blossom early during the spring, they produce lots of nectar for pollinators when winter reserves are depleted. During the summer and autumn they also provide a banquet for mammals and bird life. 4. Plant diversity
Although it is good to have plenty of native plants in your garden diversity is key for wildlife. Try to incorporate many different types of beneficial plants in your garden. A greater diversity of plants will mean a greater diversity of wildlife. Choose plants with varying functions such as; fruits, pollen, nectar, shelter, transitions and enclosure. Remember there are some non-native plants great for wildlife such as 'Butterfly Bush!' 5. Wildlife pondsWildlife ponds can really add an amazing boost to wildlife gardens! Not only do they provide a place for animals to drink they host a whole ecosystem of aquatic life. Some creatures require water to complete transitions within their lifecycles such as frogs and dragonflies. When it comes to wildlife ponds the larger the better however even a small pond will have a huge impact! 6. Evergreen shrubs
Although most deciduous trees and shrubs are beneficial to wildlife they can be very bare in winter. If your wildlife garden is devoid of vegetation during winter foraging animals may not feel as secure. This is especially so for birds and mammals trying to hide and feed during the leaner months. Evergreen shrubs can also provide some protection from cold and wet weather. 7. Bird boxesBirds naturally prefer to nest in dense vegetation and high in trees where they are safe from predators. A dramatic decline in forests however has led to reduced nesting opportunities for birds. Bird boxes provide an inexpensive and fast way to create nesting opportunities for birds. Boxes come in a range of sizes and styles to suit various species. Make sure you position your box correctly to increase the change of local birds nesting. 8. Mixed hedges
Hedges provide dense vegetation for garden birds to forage, feed and shelter. Hedgerows became extremely crucial habitats for wildlife after the felling of ancient woodland. Diverse and mixed hedges can include species providing a broad range of seeds, nuts and berries. Hedges also provide sheltered corridors where small creatures can travel safely and securely. Some suppliers sell native and mixed wildlife hedging specifically for wildlife projects. 9. Wet soil
Wet soil and mud may not seem like a likely addition to a wildlife garden. However, such habitats do occur extensively in natural landscapes and its importance as a habitat is underestimated. Wet soil and mud is used by many species of solitary bees and birds for building nests. This naturally occurring building mortar can also cater to the life cycles of specialised insects. Seasonally flooding soil and bare earth is a recognised and important habitat for many species of insect and invertebrate. 10. Fence openings
One of the biggest barriers wildlife gardens face is their potential isolation from other local habitats. This is not a problem for birds and insects but can be an issue for amphibians, reptiles and mammals. Therefore it is a good idea to create openings and tunnels under garden boundaries. This way, wild animals can have easy access to your wildlife garden. 11. Standing dead wood
Standing deadwood is extremely common in ancient forests and wild woodlands. When trees die they degrade slowly while still standing amongst the canopy. As the wood softens it becomes an extremely rich habitat for hundreds of species. Birds nest within nooks and crannies while specialised insects, beetles and invertebrates feed upon decaying wood. 12. MulchesMulching is the application of well rotted organic material to the soils surface. This feeds the soil, keeps it moist as well as protecting it from extreme weather. Such an organic mulch layer is naturally occurring in many woodland habitats. This organic layer becomes a rich habitat for decomposers and soil ecosystems. This leads to more food and abundance higher up your wildlife gardens food chain. Mulches can be made from collected leaves or bought in the form of bark mulch. 13. Insect hotels
Insect hotels are a collection of varying materials compiled together to create shelter and nesting opportunities for insects. These hotels come in a wide spectrum of different shapes and sizes. Many prefer to build their own custom insect hotels with waste materials. However, smaller insect hotels can also be bought online making a fun addition to wildlife projects. 12. Bat boxes
Bats are incredibly beneficial flying mammals and extremely impressive to watch fly. Historically bats relied upon rocky crevices, caves and old trees to roost during the day. However when old forests were cleared bats numbers declined greatly. Due to modern development and a lack of habitat bats need all the help they can get. Bat boxes are a great way to provide the vital roosting they need. 13. Feeding stations
Although wildlife gardens can produce a natural source of food adding feeding stations can really help certain species. This is especially so with certain species such as butterflies and birds! If there’s a specific species you want to encourage create a feeding station and provide its favourite food! 14. Ground cover planting
One of the most important planting types for wildlife gardens is groundcover planting. Groundcovers provide that dense vegetation for small creatures to pass through undetected. This is especially important for reptiles and amphibians which can fall victim to areal predators. Groundcovers such as Hypericum, Geranium, Aubretia and Bergenia are very effective in this regard. 15. Dry stone walls
Dry stone walls are characteristic of many old, rural landscapes in the north and West of England. Dry stone walls not only look very attractive they create amazing habitats for wildlife. The cracks and crevices provide safe quarters for a wide range of species. During sunny weather rocks heat up allowing reptiles and butterflies to sunbathe. 16. Seasonal flowers & Fruits
One of the most important factors when planting a wildlife garden is seasonality. Rather than choosing flowers which only flower in summer, aim for more seasonal interest. There are many plants which offer flowers and fruits at different times of the year. This can not only provide more seasonal food for wildlife but a more exciting garden for you! 17. Hedgehog homes
Hedgehogs are small, spiky mammals famous for their ability to roll into a perfect ball. Unfortunately hedgehog numbers have dramatically declined over the past few decades. This is mainly due to habitat loss and a lack of suitable nesting and hibernation sites. Hedgehog homes are a great way to provide these endangered creatures with the shelter they need. 18. Compost heaps
Composting is a great way to recycle organic material within your backyard. However, compost heaps can also be a real benefit to certain types of wildlife. As organic material breaks down it produces lots of heat. This can provide warm and moist places for reptiles to hibernate and raise young. The diverse range of insects and invertebrates which feed upon composting material can provide food birds and mammals. 19. Log piles
Log piles represent a very important habitat which has become increasing rare in recent times. Deadwood habitat was once common place within the landscape providing food and shelter for numerous creatures. Log piles can provide safe and secure places for wildlife to hide and feed. As logs break down over time they create food for decomposer species and help to enrich the soil. 20. Man made burrows
One of the main threats to garden wildlife is household pets and predation. Therefore it is best to include as much security within your wildlife garden as possible. A great way to do this is by building man made burrows. These can be simple brick boxes buried within landform or retaining walls. Specific species can be encouraged by the size of entrance holes and cavities. Below is an example of a hedgehog burrow I built on one of my wildlife garden projects. 21. Wildflower meadows
Wildflower meadows were once a common feature across the rural landscape. These rich and diverse grasslands were grown annually and harvested to feed farm animals during the winter months. The dense tapestries of wild grasses and wildflowers provided a rich habitat for wildlife. The thick vegetation provided plenty of food and shelter for invertebrates, insects, reptiles, small mammals and birds. Consequently, creating a wildflower meadow in your own wildlife garden can be extremely beneficial to wildlife! 22. Green roofs
Green roofs have become a great way to make use of otherwise disused roof space within urban areas. However such roof space can often be a missed opportunity within gardens. Sheds, storage units and garage roofs are perfect candidates to be fitted with green roofs in wildlife gardens. Such spaces encourage extra insect and bird life to your wildlife project. 23. Wildlife hides
Wildlife hides are by no means an essential element of a wildlife garden. However, they can certainly become the most enjoyable element for people. It is always beneficial to have some separation between people and wildlife. This allows wild creatures to feel safer and secure when people are around. A well positioned hide can add some extra interest and some fun wildlife garden encounters too!
Thank you for visiting or article on essential elements when creating a wildlife garden.
Below I will link to some of your other wildlife garden articles you may find relevant. If you are interested in our Eco and wildlife garden design and build services contact us here.
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Porcelain paving has risen to become one of the most favourite paving materials in recent times.
With a love of the 'contemporary style' many have gravitated to the clean and sleek look of porcelain. However, porcelain paving does lend itself to visual separation and bold contrasts. Although clean and modern, large areas of porcelain paving can look plain and lifeless. Consequently, porcelain can benefit greatly from well conceived edging and border design. The best edgings for porcelain will frame and enhance its visual qualities while facilitating functional necessities. From creating bold borders of contrast to retaining borders, we have compiled 8 of the best edging materials for edging porcelain below. 7 of the Best edgings for porcelain Paving1. Contemporary block pavingBlock paving may not be the first idea when considering edgings for porcelain paving. Thought of as a 'standard paving product', more common block paving certainly would not be a good choice. With so many block paving products on the market however there are some options that can compliment porcelain paving. Blocks such as Marshalls Savannah charcoal linear and Marshalls Drivesett Argent are good examples of these. These block pavers can be laid to create impressive patterns, borders and edgings to porcelain paving. 2. Kerb edgings
Kerb edgings come in a wide variety of products shapes and styles many of which are extremely versatile. Most edging kerbstones on the market are designed to integrate into driveway projects. Made of precast concrete many kerbs range from brindle to light greys and charcoal tones. Particularly charcoal kerbs can make excellent edgings for porcelain including retaining features such as steps and borders. A good example would be Bretts Drivestyle Kerb edging blocks but there are many similar ranges on the market. 3. Granite sets
Granite setts have always been a timeless commodity in hardscaping of all types and styles. These cubes of granite are extremely durable and hardwearing, perfect outdoor conditions. Such attributes have meant granite setts have been utilised for surfacing for hundreds of years. It is ironic they visually work very well within modern garden and patio design. With their rustic surface they can create the perfect contrasting border to light coloured porcelain. Their bulk means they are also suitable for edging raised borders and level changes. 4. Black slate
Slate as a natural stone has many similar qualities of porcelain paving which is manmade. Like slate, porcelain has a smooth and clean finish which works well with contemporary patios. Very often porcelain is manufactured to look natural with natural riven patterns within the surface. As slate regularly contains such patterns these two paving products generally work well together. This is particularly the case where black slate is used as border edgings to lighter coloured porcelain products. Black slate can be cut into sett or block shapes to create the perfect edging for porcelain paths and patios. 5. Blue engineering bricksBlue engineering bricks are very well known being typical construction materials. These dark blue, purple bricks are almost black in colour making them perfect for creating contrasts against lighter materials. Fired at very high temperatures the silica within the brick becomes glazed like a tile. Such qualities mean they are extremely impervious and resistant to weather penetration. This makes them suitable for creating bold and contemporary modern looking edging borders to porcelain paving. Being a dense brick they can also be used to form retaining edgings to walls borders and steps. 6. Rendered block
When it comes to raised edgings for porcelain, rendered, concrete, block has always been a versatile option. Firstly concrete blocks can be laid to almost any shape or configuration a design dictates. Concrete blocks are also extremely dense and hard wearing making them perfect for outdoor construction. When rendered well, concrete blocks take on a clean and contemporary look with a finely coarse texture. Render can then be painted to any colour desired! A typical choice is rendered block painted white or grey to compliment either dark grey or lighter tones of porcelain. Rendered block is a very effective raised edging to borders, steps and walls around porcelain paving. 7. Stack claddingStack cladding is a relatively new product which is loved for its coarse visual texture and contemporary feel. Although technically not an edging product they can be installed as edging if they are fixed to a parent material. They are designed to be clad onto masonry, brick with concrete block being the most obvious host. This means stack cladding can make an effective and modern looking edging to porcelain paving. This cladding can be fixed to all vertical surfaces within a gardens design including beds, borders and walls. Stack cladding provides the perfect contrast both in colour and texture to the smooth and clean lines of porcelain.
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