This article contains affiliate links
Any time you plan to install a shed in your backyard you will require a stable base. There is no doubt that concrete is one of the best materials for a level and robust shed base. Concrete can mould perfectly into the shape of underlying ground and be formed into any shape. A high compressive strength combined with resistance to outdoor conditions makes it a sound shed base option. It is extremely important however that concrete shed bases are installed correctly from the start. The majority of concrete bases will require excavation and the working of large quantities of heavy materials. This means quite an investment of time, labour, and cost. Consequently, in this article, I will answer some typical questions regarding installing a concrete shed base. I will explain how to lay a concrete shed base step by step with pictures. The pictures I will display have been taken from multiple shed bases I have built on my own landscaping projects. How do I prepare the ground for a concrete shed base?
To prepare ground for concrete you will need to make sure the soft topsoil layer is removed. You want to excavate to a minimum depth of 150mm deep. This should expose a sturdier layer of subsoil which is less likely to move and displace under the heavy load of concrete. It is also advisable to scatter a minimum 50mm layer of compactable mot type 1 to the excavated ground. 
When compacted this aggregate bites into the top layer of the soil making it firmer.
This also helps to create a bonding action between the concrete and the underlying soil. The edges of your concrete should be as neat and square as possible. It is therefore best to retain your concrete base with timber formwork such as treated 6x2 timber boards. Such formwork can be observed in the image above. How thick does concrete need to be for a concrete shed base?
For most garden shed bases a concrete thickness of around 100mm is adequate. For small sheds 75mm is probably fine but for larger structures housing heavy materials up to 125mm is best. In such cases it is also advisable to have a minimum 50mm layer of crushed concrete aggregate or mot type one under the base. 
Do I need membrane under a concrete shed base?
In order for wet concrete to cure correctly it requires a stable amount of moisture. An effective way to ensure the underlying ground does not absorb the concretes water away is with a membrane. This is more advisable during hot and dry summers where the ground is very absorbent. A membrane can stop the concrete drying out too quickly leading to cracking and poor curing. Such a damp proof membrane can be seen in the image below. 
Does a concrete shed base need reinforcement?
Reinforcement bars within a concrete shed base allows a slight flexibility. This flexibility provides extra rigidity against uneven and very heavy loads. Consequently, you may wish to add reinforcement mesh to the base if your shed will house heavy loads. Some examples of these may include large quantities of masonry materials or ride on lawn mowers etc. You may also wish to add reinforcement if your ground is liable to natural movements. For example, sandy soils or sites with saturated or boggy ground which are more likely to move over time. Reinforcement should be raised up slightly so it sits within the middle of the concrete layer. This can be seen in the image below of one of our concreting projects 
How much concrete do I need for my concrete shed base?
You will need to work out how many cubic metres of concrete you require. This can be executed by multiplying the length x width x depth of your concrete shed base. For example say your shed base is 2 metres x 4 metres and at a depth of 100mm. The calculation will be: 2 x 4 x 0.100 = 0.8 cubic metres If you are buying ready mix concrete you can purchase it by the cubic metre. However if you are mixing ballast and cement yourself you will need to buy ballast by the ton. Most builder’s merchants and haulage suppliers sell materials such as ballast by the ton. Consequently, you will need to work out how many tones there are to a cubic metre of ballast. 
There are about 1.6 tonnes of ballast to a cubic metre. Therefore:
0.8 x1.6 = 1.28 tonnes of ballast To make things even more awkward for small quantities below 4 tones many merchants won’t deliver loose. Therefore you will have to buy the ballast in jumbo bags. 1 jumbo bag of ballast = 0.85 tonnes or 850kg Therefore for 1.28 tonnes of ballast you will need: 1.28 / 0.850 = 1.505 Therefore, for our case study you will need to purchase two jumbo bags of ballast for your concrete shed base! How to lay a concrete shed base by hand step by stepStep 1: Location
One of the most crucial elements of laying a concrete shed base is the location. You want to position your base somewhere accessible and which complements the existing circulation of your site. Try to locate your base away from growing trees as these can lift your base as they grow. If concreting near a boundary try to lay up to the fence line to prevent weeds and samplings establishing. Step 2: Excavation
Excavate your shed base area as neat and square as possible. This will make it easier to purchase the correct amount of materials for the concrete shed base. If you need to get rid of soil from your excavations this is best done by ordering a skip. Why not visit our article on how to fill a skip correctly. 
Step 3: Shuttering formwork
'Shuttering' and 'formwork' are simply forming a retaining mould for your concrete shed base. This is normally achieved utilising treated 6x2 timber fixed to timber pegs with external grade screws. The form work will enable you to set levels and the exact shape of your concrete before you start concreting. Such timber form work can be observed in the landscaping project below. 
Step 4: Setting up your work space
This is more relevant if you are mixing up concrete manually, however a methodical workspace is always essential. Concreting can be a fast and intensive process so preparation is key. Make sure you have all the tools and materials you need close to hand before work commences. 
Step 5: Mixing concrete
Fill your mixer with around half a builder’s bucket of water and add half a 25kg bag of cement. Let the mixer hydrate the cement well with no lumps, add more water if necessary. Shovel around 12 shovels of ballast gradually into the mixer gradually. If you are unsure about your ratio, measure out your materials in buckets. Add water until the mix has the consistency of runny porridge. 
Step 6: Pouring the concrete
Pour your concrete into your formwork, it is best to start at one end and level a section at a time. Heap up your concrete and move it roughly level with a spade. Make sure the concrete is slightly higher than the formwork. Tamp down and drag the excess concrete towards you creating a level surface. Keep going back over the area in front of you to blend in a consistent level. Using a medium sized spirit level gently pump the surface to reach a smooth and level surface. 
Step 7: Curing
Concrete requires time to cure and set. Allow you concrete to set with no threat of disturbance! Pet cats somehow have a love or leaving foot prints in new shed bases so keep your cats in or fence off your masterpiece. Try do undertake this work when there is no threat of frost overnight. 
Step 8: Completion
You have now completed your concrete shed base, clean your tools and clear away your workspace. It is best to leave your base to cure for two days before installing a new shed. This is because it takes a couple of days for the wearing surface or the concrete cream to go fully hard. 
FAQ’sShould I buy ready mix concrete for a concrete shed base?
If you are concreting a large area above 25 square metres it is probably best to buy ready mix. To lay a larger area in one hit can become tiresome with the threat you may not be able to keep the concrete workable to tamp level. The draw back however with ready mix is you will more than likely end up with more than you need. Concrete pumps are often cleaned out on site near to where the concrete is being laid. This can lead to stained patios and concreted lawns and flower borders. Consequently, I would only buy ready mix for larger and thicker shed bases. How to work out how much concrete I need for a concrete base?
Concrete is typically worked out and sold in cubic metres. Therefore, you will need to times the length x width x depth. For this question I have repeated the break down I explained earlier in the article. For example say your shed base is 2 metres x 4 metres and at a depth of 100mm. The calculation will be; 2 x 4 x 0.100 = 0.8 cubic metres If you are buying ready mix concrete you can purchase it by the cubic metre. However if you are mixing ballast and cement yourself you will need to buy ballast by the ton. Most builder’s merchants and haulage suppliers sell materials such as ballast by the ton. Consequently, you will need to work out how many tones there are to a cubic metre of ballast. There are about 1.6 tonnes of ballast to a cubic metre. Therefore: 0.8 x1.6 = 1.28 tonnes of ballast 
How many bulk bags of ballast do I need for my concrete base?
To make things even more awkward for small quantities below 4 tones many merchants won’t deliver loose. Therefore you will have to buy the ballast in jumbo bags. 1 jumbo bag of ballast = 0.85 tonnes or 850kg Therefore for 1.28 tonnes of ballast you will need: 1.28 / 0.850 = 1.505 Therefore for our case study you will need to purchase two jumbo bags of ballast for your concrete shed base. 
How many 25kg bags of cement do I need per 850kg bag of ballast?For a 5:1 ballast to cement concrete mix you will need 6 bags of cement to every 850kg bulk bag of ballast. 
How to make a concrete base level?
The very best way to make a concrete shed base level is to install level form work or shuttering. This can be achieved using 6x2 treated timber fixed to timber pegs driven securely into the soil. The timber edging can be levelled with a spirit level before it is fixed into position. You can then tamp the concrete level with a long straight edge across the level form work. This can be observed well in the image of one of our projects below. A good tip is to make you concrete a little wetter so it naturally wants to run level with less manual effort. 
Concrete base and concreting services in BuckinghamshireIf you require concreting services across Buckinghamshire and surrounding areas, please do not hesitate to contact us. We provide concrete bases for sheds, summer houses and garden offices. We can also provide concrete garden pathways and sideway concrete installation. Our typical service areas include: Amersham, Aylesbury, Bovingdon, Chalfont, Chesham, Hyde Heath, Great Missenden, Princes Risborough, High Wycombe, Penn, Beaconsfield, Tring, Gerrard's Cross and Denham.
Thank you for reading our article on how to lay a shed base with concrete. Below I have linked to some other articles you may also find useful.
Helpful links about installing concrete shed basesHow to Pour a Concrete Shed Slab! DIY! - YouTube How to Lay a Concrete Shed Base (7 Step Guide) | iMix Concrete A step-by-step guide to laying a concrete shed base | HSS Hire
'As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases'
0 Comments
This article contains affiliate links
Like most professional careers a landscaper’s daily tasks and duties can vary greatly depending upon multiple factors.
Some landscapers may work in organisations focused upon public open spaces, whereas others may focus more on domestic garden projects. Whatever the realm of landscaping sector landscapers operate they will often undertake a multitude of varying tasks. Landscaping is one of the most varied and diverse trades within the construction industry. Most landscapers have experience in gardening, construction and landscape maintenance. In this article I will aim to break down the various types of landscaping a landscaper will undertake. I will also try to give a holistic summery of what a landscaper is and what they do. What is a landscaper?A landscaper develops, improves, builds and maintains landscapes both in the private and public sectors. Garden and landscape work is as varied and diverse as regular construction. Consequently, landscapers are very often multi-skilled in a wide variety of professions and trades. Some landscapers may be more proficient in soft landscaping which includes; groundwork, planting and maintenance of green spaces. Hard landscapers on the other hand are more likely to be landscape builders than gardeners. Most landscapers however will have at least some experience in both hard and soft landscaping. 
Is a landscaper the same as a landscape gardener?
As landscaping is such a varied profession it is often difficult to try to pin a single task to a particular title. Many landscape gardeners and landscapers will be capable of doing the same work and projects. The term 'landscape gardener' however does lean towards more of a gardening theme. This implies more of a garden maintenance or landscape development role. On the other hand the term landscaper implies the creation and building of new landscapes and gardens. Hard landscapers will typically be focused upon building with hard materials and soft landscapers will be focused upon groundwork, planting and turfing. 
What projects does a landscaper do?
What projects you do as a landscaper will depend upon the company and sector you work in. If you build public open spaces you could be involved in playground installation and even skate park construction. However in private gardens your focus maybe more upon laying patios, decks and installing new lawns. However, landscaping is so diverse landscapers could end up being involved in any of the tasks listed below.
Commercial landscaping
Commercial landscapers operate within the public realm creating and maintaining a variety of landscape spaces. Many of these include public parks, gardens public displays and recreational facilities. Most local authorities will employ their own in-house soft landscaping teams. These will normally be maintenance operatives and green keepers. However many commercial landscaping projects rely upon private sub-contractors hired by the public sector. Commercial landscaping typically involves large scale tasks requiring heavy machinery. 
Domestic landscaping
Domestic landscaping is mainly undertaken by the private sector and typically involves private gardens. Domestic landscaping teams are generally made up of small groups of highly skilled landscapers who can undertake multiple tasks. Most landscapers who work on domestic projects rarely get bored! This is due to the fact a single project can include such a variety of work and tasks. Some of these can include; labouring, machine operating, levelling, concreting, and fencing paving and much more. Some domestic landscapers can end up focusing in one particular specialty they are good at or enjoy. Some examples of these include fencing, planting and paving. 
Do you need qualifications to become a landscaper?
Most of the time there is no absolute need for formal qualifications to become a landscaper. The real way to truly learn the landscaping trade is with hands on experience. However, anyone wishing to become a landscaper will hugely excel their career by having a formal qualification. For example, an accredited course in horticulture, landscape construction or garden design will provide a key advantage. A foundation in such subjects or a very keen interest and love for the work will stand candidates in good stead. If you are serious about becoming a hard landscaper it will benefit you greatly to learn a relevent trade. 
The two best trades for landscaping are bricklaying and carpentry. My personal advice is don’t simply start a course and go through the motions. Most courses will never be effective if you are not steering the ship!
Save up, buy some materials and practice at home, to get started offer to do small projects for free to build up skill & confidence. Do not underestimate the level of skills needed to be successful in landscaping! Most high earning landscapers run their own business or are sought after contractors. To rise to this level you will need to develop good communication and interpersonal skills. Organisation and logistics is key to becoming a profitable landscaper so you should be both forward thinking and organised. 
Successful landscapers will need to acquire the ability to qualify themselves with new skills. To excel your career you will need to learn how to market your portfolio.
This can include learning how to build websites, implement seo and campaign strategies. Most of the time there are no entry qualifications required to start landscaping. However, if you are serious about becoming a profitable landscaper you will need to become a ‘self learner’ I would seriously recommend a course in horticulture or learn a relevant trade first. How do I become a landscaper?
The best way to become a landscaper is get some hands on experience. By all means do a course but you must first establish if you like the work. Try to get into a company at entry level; most good companies are always searching for people. From experience I can say you can learn so much by watching. However it is important to not simply stay a landscaping labourer for years on end. Take an interest in the project you are doing and try to become indispensable to your team. 
A good labourer is worth their weight in gold! Nobody will invest in time training you if you don’t master the basics and work hard!
Then you need to take ownership of small projects and build confidence. When you become experienced enough, take responsibility for larger and more complicated tasks. This is the only way to become a good all round landscaper through experience and gaining confidence. How much do landscapers get paid?How much landscapers earn depends upon what type of landscaping, geographic location and experience level. The average salary for a landscaper in the UK is £22,500 per year. However, this number is an average and not representative of what most landscapers earn. If you are a young trainee your pay is more likely to be between £15,000 and £18,000 per annum. If you work for a company and have reasonable experience expect to earn around the national average, £22,500. On the whole hard landscapers do earn more than soft landscapers. Hard landscapers normally have a skilled trade and undertake more varied and multi skilled tasks. Consequently it is common for hard landscapers to earn between £25,000 and £35,000 per year. Hard landscapers who run whole projects and command a team can earn between £32,000 and £42,000 per year. However if you are a self employed landscaper with a few staff you can expect to earn between £45,000 to £90,000 per year. Larger landscaping company directors and CEO’s can earn even more than that. It is important to remember that landscaping rates will also depend upon your location. For example London landscapers will earn more and have a higher cost of living than rural landscapers. Is landscaping a good career?
Landscaping can be an extremely profitable and fulfilling career. If you love to be physically active, building and the great outdoors it could be for you. In a recent study in the UK showed that landscaping is one of the happiest professions. Seeing that the UK Generally has quite changeable weather this has considerable merit! In a study of the happiest professions across the world landscaping always made the top 10. A combination of physical exercise, satisfaction of admiring a completed project and greenery certainly contributes. 
If you can work for yourself and get involved within all stages of a project it will be very rewarding. From personal experience designing, building, and taking care of outside spaces is very fulfilling.
There are however also some downsides you must consider to becoming a landscaper. Firstly, you will lose income due to bad weather it is just a part of the game. I have experienced some projects which have been held back for over six weeks! You also have the threat that any physical injury can put you out of work. Every landscaper I know has had injuries arise that has put them out of work so this should be a consideration. 
It is always important to weigh up the pros and cons of any big career decision.
However there is nothing worse than spending your life doing a job you hate. If you love gardening, being active and building landscaping is a very fulfilling profession. Why not visit our more in-depth article on is landscaping a good career here. Here I break down all of the advantages and disadvantages of this unique profession.
Thank you for reading our article on what is a landscaper. Below I will include some other articles you may find useful.
'As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases'
This article contains affiliate links
Timber edging has always been a popular choice for garden and landscape edging.
Being an organic material it has a natural aesthetic and less heavy effect on the landscape. When it comes to choosing timber edging however there are many elements to consider. Some of these will include appearance, budget, durability and maintenance. The type and grade of timber you install will greatly depend upon the specific requirement of your edging. If your edging needs to be robust to retain soil you will need thicker sections of timber edging. In such a circumstance perhaps timber sleepers would be better suited. In this article, I will break down all of the considerations of installing timber garden edging. I will also list and describe the best timber for wooden garden edging for every scenario. Is wood good for garden edging?Whether wood and timber is good for garden edging really depends upon your specific gardens design. There are many advantages of using timber and I personally love both aesthetic appeal and flexible qualities. Thinner cuts of timber can create perfect curves and even circles within garden designs. Many timber products utilised for outdoor use and construction are treated to reduce decay. There are also many hardwoods which can naturally resist the vigour’s of the outdoors. 
However I would say although most external timber products will last they can't last forever!
Even hardwoods will eventually decay but how fast will depend upon your site and application. If you are using thin edgings in very saturated soil they will degrade faster. As a general rule I say use masonry materials for large retaining edging if your budget allows. So yes, wood and timber is good for garden edging but be aware of its limitations after a decade or two. Treated timber edgingMany softwood timbers are pressure treated so they are more suitable for outdoor use. This treatment helps to repel moisture and reduce the rate at which the timber degrades. As softwood timber is fast growing and cheaper to buy treated timber is the most typical outdoor choice. Most fencing materials such as timber panels, posts and gravel boards are treated in this way. Such timber can also be stained for greater protection and a more aesthetic appeal. It is no surprise that timber gravel boards are one of the most popular choices for flexible and flush garden edging. This can be seen in the image below! 
Flexible timber garden edgingWhile concrete and masonry materials are well known for their compressive strength, timber is hailed for its flexible properties. Consequently it is no surprise that thin and flexible timber edging is often utilised to form curved garden edging. Timber has the added benefit of absorbing seasonal changes within the soils moisture content. This allows timber to flex and contort without breaking and cracking like concrete or masonry edging. The most common example of flexible timber edging is fencing gravel boards. These can have groves scored into them with a saw for extra flexibility and give. Thin timber decking boards can also be joined together and installed in this way. This is extremely useful if you want thin, hardwood, garden edging but can only source the material in decking. 
Raised timber edging
There are a couple of reasons why you may wish to have raised timber edgings in your back yard. The most common reason is to retain soil back off of patios and lawns. Another reason for raised timber edging is to create a small physical barrier or junction between varying surfaces. When it comes to raised timber edging durability is very important! If your timber is too thin or week it will not be able to resist knocks and pressures applied to it. This is particularly the case with raised and retaining timber edging. 
Such edging is even more at risk from degradation over time due to wet soil and applied loads.
In an ideal scenario the best raised timber edging will be at least 75mm in thickness. However, for retaining soil I would recommend raised timber edging be at least 100mm thick. This is why timber sleepers are the best raised timber edging material for external use. Using timber sleepers as garden edging
Timber sleepers are large and robust sections of timber commonly utilised for landscape construction. Originally sleepers where created to a sturdy base to railway lines, hence the name ‘railway sleepers’. Most sleepers measure 2.4 metres x 200mm x 100mm thick. This makes them the optimum thickness for creating raised beds and retaining garden edging. Sleepers are very effective at forming long, straight and robust outdoor structures. However sleepers can also be used to form robust curves to within garden landscaping. Sleepers can be cut into shorter sections and set vertically into the ground. Such vertical sleeper retainers are normally set in concrete for extra rigidity. Such vertical sleeper edging can be seen in the background of the image below. 
Hardwood garden edging
Hardwood is always the preferred timber for outdoor edging for two reasons. Firstly it is much denser than softwood and more resistant to outdoor conditions and rot. Secondly it generally looks much more aesthetically pleasing than softwoods. This is especially so with hardwoods such as Cedar, Redwood and Balau which display radiant colours. However, surprisingly there is not much choice on the market when it comes to hardwood edging. My guess for the reason would be the cost does not justify the amount needed for most gardens. 
Consequently from a market perspective demand would be very low. However, there is an effective solution for creating the hardwood edging of your choice.
Try to purchase your preferred hardwood edging choice in decking boards. Hardwood decking can easily be worked into excellent garden edging of different styles and designs. Balau garden edging
Also known as Shorea Balau, this tropical hardwood originates from Southeast Asia. Balau is well known for its radiant red look when oiled and fine grain. This hardwood is extremely resistant to decay, rot and insect damage making it ideal for garden edging. Balau can provide a very contemporary feel with its orange tones contrasting well with creams and blacks. Balau decking boards can be purchased and formed into very effective garden edging. 
Teak garden edging
Teak is a well known tropical hardwood from Southeast Asia. Like Balau it is extremely durable and dense making it perfect for outdoor construction. Teak has a rich golden brown colour which can really bring sophistication to a landscape project. The good thing about teak is it a little more accessible than some other tropical hardwoods. Its colours also generally match other timber products such as garden furniture on the market. Always make sure your teak hardwood is purchased from a sustainable source. 
Cedar garden edging
Cedar is been favoured for its durability and light weight making it perfect for a variety of construction projects. Cedar actually comes from a coniferous tree which actually makes it softwood. However natural compounds in this timber make it extremely insect repellent and resistant to decay. These natural compounds also give the wood a very pleasant aroma. Cedar edging does come in a range of products but simple deck boards can be utilised as edging. 
Redwood garden edging
One of the most delightful qualities of Redwood timber is its vibrant, reddish brown, tones. This time is extremely hard wearing and naturally resistant to moisture and decay. Redwood has become a popular material for both decking and outdoor edging materials. Like Cedar redwood is light weight and very easy to work into any specification. Redwood is also less likely to warp and change its shape during seasonal fluctuations in temperature and moisture. 
Cypress garden edging
Cypress timber is well known for being moisture resistant and tolerant of outdoor conditions. It has long been favoured for its light brown colour which has a modern feel. Cypress like Redwood is well known for its stability and reduced risk of contraction. This has made it very popular for any type of outdoor or landscape construction. There is not many Cypress products on the market specifically designed for edging. However garden edging can easily be made from Cyprus boards or cypress decking!
Thank you for reading our article for what timber is the best for garden edging. Below I will link to some other articles you may find useful.
'As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases'
This article contains affiliate links
When it comes to installing the perfect edging for paving, attention to detail is everything.
Not only is it essential for your paving to look good it must also be structurally sound and robust. The best edging for paving will both compliment paving aesthetically as well as providing a strong perimeter border. However, the word edging really is a broad term when it comes to paved surfaces. Edging for paving can create bold visual borders or add some form or retaining function. Most of the time however paving edging has more than one function. Paving edging now comes in a wide variety of products and materials ranging from timber to metal and masonry materials. In this article I cover the main types of paving edging and six of the best material choices for edging paving. Retaining edging for pavingRetaining edging is one of the most functionally important parts of any paved surface. Such edging ensures that paving has a robust perimeter which contains both the paving and its base. If paving is laid upon sloping ground then retaining edging can become even more important and pronounced. On substantial gradients paving edging may be laid onto retaining foundations or even retaining walls. This could be a soldier course of brickwork along the top of a low retaining wall. 
Most of the time however, retaining edging forms a ridged barrier between paving’s base work and the surrounding ground.
This can ensure the longevity of a paving’s base by ensuring it remains well compacted over time. By far the most important retaining edging is that used within flexible paving. Flexible paving includes paving laid upon compacted sand such as block paving driveways. Edging blocks and kerb edgings are concreted into position to provide a strong retaining edge. 
This helps to keep the compacted sand and base work firmly in place so no displacement occurs.
Common materials used for retaining paving edging include; kerb edgings, path edgings, bricks, blocks and sets. Border edging for paving
Border edging for paving typically serves more of a visual function than a functional one. Very often, large expanses of the same paving material can become monotonous and boring. Consequently a border edging will normally be a contrasting tone or material which is in keeping with the paving's style. A good example of this would be a row of dark red bricks bordering multi-tonal sandstone. Such can be seen in one of our patio project examples in the image below. Occasionally border edging can be even more dramatic with big colour contrasts between materials. 
Such an example would be a header course of blue engineering bricks edging cream, porcelain, paving.
However, border edging can also have other functions such as retaining paving edges and proving junctions to different surfaces.
Border edging can also be utilised to form design patterns within paved surfaces. 
What is the best edging for a patio?The best edging material for a patio will depend upon your specific projects design and personal preferences. Generally however, the best edging for a patio will visually contrast the patio itself but still compliment the design as a whole. Often a differing colour or visual texture to the primary paving material is the most effective. This is why a solider course of decorative landscape bricks regularly works well with patio slabs. The best edging for a patio will also be robust and have a retaining function to the patios base. Such edging will separate the paving’s base aggregates from the surrounding ground. On the whole masonry materials such as concrete, brick and natural stone have such qualities ideal for patio edging. 
What is the best edging for driveways?
The best edging for driveways is an edging with aesthetic appeal and a high compressive strength that does not degrade over time. Typically driveway edgings will need to retain large quantities of compacted aggregates with no threat of failure. Consequently the best edgings for driveways are masonry materials such as concrete edging kerbs, brick and natural stone walling. Furthermore, effective driveway edging will compliment the driveways surfacing material. Commonly this will come down to aesthetic design and personal choice. It is very common for driveway paving such as block paving to come with their own associated edging products. 
6 of the best edgings for pavingBrick edging borders
Bricks are one of the very best edging materials for paving edging. Not only do they look good they can also be laid to form retaining walls and attractive borders. Bricks laid in a soldier course can create a pleasant visual texture to the edge of the paving. They can also help to add contrast to the patio surface as a whole. 
Natural stone set edgings
Setts are robust cubes of natural stone which are extremely robust and hard wearing. For centuries square sets were used to surface roads and pavements within the public realm. Natural stone sets can also make attractive and strong edgings to paving slabs. Their sheer mass and depth enable them to retain other heavy paving materials effectively. 
Kerb edgings
Kerb edgings are generally made from concrete and specifically designed for edging paving. Some kerb edgings have curves or bull-nose designs while others have a more angular profile. Kerb edgings are particularly useful if you want to implement raised or retaining edgings to paving. These can also be used to form raised beds or build steps like in the image below. 
Concrete block edging
Concrete blocks are some of the most versatile of building materials. Blocks can be cut into a multitude of different shapes and sizes for utilisation as edging. The extra advantage of using concrete block is you can clad it in pretty much any other material. Blocks can be rendered, painted, clad or tiled. Smaller concrete blocks such as block paving can also be used as flush edgings to paving. 
Path edging kerbs
Path edging kerbs come in a range of styles and colours but generally take a similar form. These edging kerbs are typically around 1 metre in length, 150mm deep and about 50mm wide. Pathway edgings are designed to form a robust retaining edging to patios and pathways. Such edging kerbs are an effective way to create clean and modern, flush or raised edgings to paving. 
Sleeper edging
Sleepers are robust sections of treated timber used extensively within landscaping. Generally sleepers are around 2.4 metres long 200mm wide and 100mm thick. Sleepers can be used as edging for paving in two main ways vertically and horizontally. Horizontally they can be laid along the straight edge of paving to create a retaining border edge. If you have a curved paving edge, sleepers can be set in vertically to form a meandering edge or retaining feature. 
Thank you for reading our article on the best edging for paving! Below I will like to some other articles you may also find useful.
'As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases'
This article contains affiliate links
Wooden gates are a commodity for the garden and other backyard projects. Not only are they only great for side gates but also out buildings chicken coups and animal enclosures.
The problem is, most pre-made timber gates on sale are made from thin and flimsy materials. These can easily degrade over time becoming more of a liability than an asset. Furthermore, there is one main advantage of building gates from scratch. They can be built to fit any width or gap perfectly flush. Building your own strong wooden garden gate is not as technical as many people assume. Consequently, in this article, I will explain how to build a very strong timber gate step by step. The gates dimensions will be 900mm wide by 1.8 metres tall. 
Shopping list5no. 47x47mm treated timber 1.8m long 6no. 150x22mm treated timber gravel board 1.8mm long 1 Pack of external grade 80mm wood screws 1 pack of external grade 50mm wood screws 1 large bolt lock 3 large wooden gate T Hinges Tools you will need
Step 1:
Take two 1.8 sections of 47x47mm timber and lay them out parallel on a flat piece of ground. You will then need to cut three pieces of 47x47 to a length of 806mm. When placed between the two long vertical braces, these will make the gate 900mm wide. 
Step 2:
Using a set square and carpenters pencil mark the three 806mm lengths accurately and squarely. Then cut the three horizontal braces as neatly and square as possible. 
Step 3:
Offer up the top, bottom and middle braces tightly between the two verticals, you now have the complete frame of your new gate. 
Step 4:
Drill pilot holes through the vertical timbers into the horizontal braces as central and square as possible. 
Step 5:
Screw the new timber framework together using the 80mm screws. Make sure this is done on a hard and flat surface to ensure flush joins. 
Step 6:
You will need to cut two sections of 47x47mm timber to make triangular corner braces. This makes the gates frame extra strong and prevents diagonal torsion forces warping the frame. Offer up your timber from the top corner to the corner of the central horizontal. Mark a diagonal line so it can fit perfectly between the two horizontals. Now cut the diagonals as neatly as you can. 
Step 7:
Offer up the corner diagonals and screw them tightly into the frame, you have now completed the gates frame. 
Step 8:
Cut your gravel boards perfectly in half squarely into 900mm sections using your wood saw. Using 50mm screws fix your gravel boards squarely onto your gates frame. Start at the top and fix them tightly and flush until you reach the bottom. You have now completed your strong timber gate. You may notice this gate is very heavy; this is why it must be hung with three large T hinges. Lean your gate up vertically on a warm and dry today to reduce its moisture content and hence its weight. 
Step 9:Due to this gates robustness you will need to attach it to a strong post. Your posts must be a minimum of 100mm thick and be concreted into the ground 600mm. Wedge the gate into position and hang your gate using the T hinges. It is best to wedge the gate up off the ground and attach the hinges to the gate first. Try to fix the gate with a slight tilt towards the post at the top. This will allow the weight of the gate to pull it vertically plum when your release the wedges. 
Step 10:
Fix your bolt lock to your gate where it meets the post, bolt locks normally come with shorter fixing screws.
You have now completed your strong timber gate! Thank you for reading our step by step guide on how to make a strong timber gate.
If your project was a success or have any questions why not comment below?
If you found this article helpful why not help us by sharing it via the tabs below? Thank you!
'As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases'
This article contains affiliate links
Cold frames are a great way to raise young plants in a safe and warm growing environment.
These miniature greenhouses are particularly useful for hardening of plants during their transition from inside to outside. There are many different possible cold frame variations to build yourself or to buy on the market. Generally there are two typical flaws most cold frames have; being too static or lacking in height. Many cold frames have a heavy brick and concrete base, this makes it difficult move them. Secondly, as many cold frames are not that tall some plants soon outgrow them before the weather warms up. Consequently, in this article, I show you how to build a DIY coldframe with Polycarbonate which is both tall and mobile. The DIY cold frame has a 47mm timber frame for extra strength and durability. 
Shopping listTools you will need
How to build a DIY Cold frame step by stepStep 1: Measure and mark your timber
Your first step is to cut your timber into all the lengths you need. You will need 10 cuts at 500mm and 6 cuts at 1200mm.
Step 2: Cut your timber
Cut your timber into the desired lengths, when cutting; keep cuts as neat and as square as possible. This will allow your timber to fix together square and tight.
Step 3: Set out your frame
Set out your timbers to create your three main rectangles, you should have three rectangles and four side braces.
Step 4: Drill pilot holes
Drill pilot holes through your frame where your corners are going to attach. When drilling try to keep your drill as square on as possible. You pilot holes will guide your 80mm screws and prevent them from splitting the timber.
Step 5: Screw your corners
Place your corners on a flat surface so they are positioned tightly and square. Using a power drill screw your corners together with a single 80mm screw.
Step 6: Attach your brackets
When you have attached all your corners reinforce them by screwing in your corner brackets.
Step 7: Attach your connector braces
Using a drill fix together your connector braces to form the main body of the cold frame.
Step 8: Cut your polycarbonate
Cut your polycarbonate where necessary with a sharp Stanley knife and straight edge. This will really only apply to your 600mm x 600mm ends.
Step 9: Apply your adhesive
Using a sealant gun apply your adhesive to the outer frame; make sure you apply enough to form a good seal.
Step 10: Attach your polycarbonate
Place your polycarbonate sheets onto the frame; apply pressure around the edges to ensure a good grip. If you have sheltered garden with little wind the adhesive may be enough to hold your polycarbonate.
Step 11: Fix your polycarbonate
More often than not it is best to fix your sheets down with fixings. This can be achieved with timber beading, glazing bars or even screws and washers. 
Thank you for reading my article on how to build a DIY cold frame with polycarbonate. If this article helped build your own cold frame you why not share it with your friends. Below I will include some other articles you may find relevant.
'As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases'
This article contains affiliate links
If you want to remove weeds from between pavers you are not alone. Weeds growing between the gaps of paving are one of the most frustrating garden foes.
Not only does removing weeds from paving take much time and effort it is also very awkward. The problem is once weeds have started to grow between pavers they are almost certain to return. This can make clearing driveways and patios an up hill battle which never ends. Weedy patios and driveways can really make your property look unkept and ugly. Consequently, here, I will explain the methods and steps you can take to get rid of weeds between pavers for good. Why do weeds grow between pavers?Many weeds are known as pioneer plants as they are able to colonise new areas quickly. Very often these weeds can colonise rather inhospitable environments such as rocky ground and paved surfaces. Pioneering weeds rarely require the same levels of nutrients and water as typical garden plants. The seeds of weeds can be blown great distances by the wind and can become lodged between gaps between pavers. 
These crevices provide just enough moisture, nutrients and sunlight to germinate and become established.
most of the weeds you find growing between are particularly drought resistant and hardy. Some typical examples include the dandelion, sorrel and grasses. Such weeds have robust root systems and a low growing habit making them difficult to eradicate from paved surfaces. How to remove weeds from block pavingThe only sure way to remove weeds from block paving and stop them reoccurring is to replace the sand between the pavers. The reason the gaps between block pavers become full of weeds is because dirt has accumulated between the gaps over time. This provides enough nutrients for weeds to become established. Weeds will have to be manually levered out with a long and thin tool such as a patio weeding knife. Then you will have to pressure wash out all the remaining sand and dirt from between the pavers. Make sure this is done on a warm and dry period when the weather is fine. 
Remove the old sand from the surface and allow the driveway to dry out. The next day when the block paving gaps and surface are totally dry sweep in salt to all the gaps.
When the gaps are completely dry fill the gaps with block paving or sweeping in sand. This will rejuvenate the block paving and stop weeds from re-establishing themselves within the surface. Make sure you do not drive on the block paving when there is no sand between the gaps. This will stop the pavers from displacing and moving when there is no sand to lock them in place. 
To kill weeds between block paving you can use other weed killer methods such as vinegar and chemicals. However to stop the weeds common back you will need to replace the sand between pavers as described.
How to remove weeds from between paving slabs
It is very typical for weeds to become established between paving slabs. This is especially so if the paving joints have not been mortar pointed. If your paving has been butted up then there is a chance weeds will establish in the fine gaps between pavers. Very often paving slabs are not laid onto a firm and solid base. this leads to pavers moving exacerbating gaps and cracked mortar between paving. 
Consequently, the best way to get rid of weeds between paving slabs is to remove them and repoint the paving with mortar.
not only will this remove the weeds by the roots it will stop them re-establishing themselves. If you have slabs which rock or move around when walked upon they will need to be re-laid upon a solid mortar base. 4 Homemade solutions for getting rid of weeds in pavingThere are a few homemade solutions for killing weeds in between your pavers. Below I have listed four of these methods which are not too damaging to the environment. Bear in mind that weeds between paving can be more challenging to kill than weeds within gravel or soil. This is because the paving can create an impenetrable barrier between the roots and the surface. Consequently it is best to use these weed killer methods during the summer when the ground is dry. This will enable the substances to be drawn towards the roots of the weeds. 1. Rock salt
Rock salt is surprisingly effective at killing weeds down to the roots. Rock salt dehydrates the weed making them simply shrivel up and die. This method is more effective during the summer when there is less threat of moisture within the ground dissolving the salt. However most weeds can not withstand salty conditions and generally die within a few days. For block paving you may have to use a finer table salt so the granules sink down in between the pavers. 
2. Vodka
As much as it is a shame to waste alcohol it is true that vodka is an effective weed killer. In fact any alcoholic drink around 40% and above alcohol works well. When using alcohol to kill weeds between pavers wait for a warm and dry day. Pour your vodka very slowly using a very thin trickle and make sure every drop sinks in around the weeds. You want to make sure enough is applied to saturate the weeds roots under the paving. Typically weeds treated this way will slowly die over the next few days. 
3. Boiling waterBoiling water is very effective at killing weeds right down to the roots. The great thing about using this method is you are not adding anything that can change the chemical composition of the surrounding ground. The main drawback however is water can cool down before it reaches the roots. This is especially so for weeds growing between paving that have extra protection from the paving slabs. However, it is certainly worth trying first before any more toxic options. Once again this method is much more effective during the summer months. 
4. Vinegar
If you want to kill weeds between pavers without using chemicals then vinegar is a great option. The strong acids within vinegar break down the plant cells within weeds helping to kill them off. However you will need to apply enough so the vinegar reaches the roots. This can be challenging particularly if the roots are protected by pavers. Therefore it is better applied during warm and dry summer weather when the roots are more likely to be dry. Trickle the vinegar onto the centre of the plant slowly so it seeps down to the roots. 
Weed killers for removing weeds from paving
Many people are moving away from chemical herbicides for managing garden weeds. Chemical weed killers used on paving mean toxins can be washed into drainage networks during times of heavy rain. Such drains can find their way into natural watercourses where they kill aquatic plants and wildlife. Furthermore such chemicals can remain within the hydraulic cycle which we ourselves may also consume. If you do need to use chemical on paving make sure it does not fall into local drainage networks. There are two main types or chemical weed killers used for paving on the market; spray weed killers and sweep in weed killers.   Spray weed killers
There are many brands of spray weed killers on the market today. These are mainly contact weed killers which when sprayed will kill the weeds down to the root. However, for robust, perennial weeds you may need a few treatments for stubborn subjects. I have linked to a popular brand below.   Sweep in weed killers
Sweep in weed killers are specifically designed to be swept in between pavers. these weed killers not only kill weeds on contact they also prevent weeds from growing back. These weed killers are especially useful for killing and supressing weeds between block paving pavers. I have below linked to a popular sweep in weed killer, No grow from Dansand.   Tools for removing weeds from block paving & slabs
Removing weeds from in between pavers is a rather specific exercise which requires specific tools. This is especially the case if you are weeding between block paving or paving slabs with broken mortar. Below I have listed 5 main weeding tools that are ideal for removing weeds from paving. Thermal weeders
Thermal weeders are electrical devices designed to kill off weeds with extreme heat. These weeding gadgets consist of a metal cup or heat mouth at the front which is placed over the top of the weeds. A pulse of heat up to 600 degrees Celsius blasts the weeds causing it to instantly shrivel and die. However thermal weeders may not be as effective on paving with large perennial weeds with deep tap roots.   Weed burners
Weed burners are gas powered devices very similar to blow torches which enable you to burn weeds to their death. These are very powerful weeders and can easily kill weeds down to their core. The only issue you may have is burning and scorching your paving. This can leave burn marks or in extreme cases fracturing to the edges of your paving. If you do need to use a burner for weeds in paving it would be better to experiment with an out of sight trial area first.   Weeding hook hoe
Weeding hook hoes are particularly efficient at removing weeds from between pavers. They consist of a long handle and sickle like hook which is perfect for picking and scraping weeds out of crevices by the roots. Hook hoes come in a variety of different shapes and styles.   Weeding brush
Weeding brushes are very efficient at removing stubborn weeds from gaps between paving and concrete. They are particularly effective at removing low growing weeds such as grasses and moss. The ridged wire brush easily blasts out tough weed roots as well as debris from the gaps between pavers. This makes it troublesome for weeds to become established once more.   Weeding knife
When it comes to removing weeds from paving you need a tool which is long and sharp. This enables you to penetrate the deepest gaps and lever out the weeds by the roots. One of the best tools for this is a weeding knife, these come in a range of styles and designs. I have included a good example of such below.  
Thank you for reading our article on how to remove weeds from between pavers. Below I have linked to some other articles you may find useful.
'As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases'
This article contains affiliate links
Block paving is one of the most versatile paving materials on the market. With block paving there is pretty much a product for every design style and personal taste. Traditionally block paving is more thought of as a driveway product and for good reason. Its slightly flexible construction enables it to take the heavy weight of cars without cracking. Many interlinking blocks create a tightly packed surface which can absorb heavy impacts and loads. However, is block paving suitable for patios? Is it as good as or even better than traditional paving slabs? Here I will summarise block paving’s suitability for patios and which type of block paving is best for patio use. Is block paving good for patios?
The real answer to this question is, it is a matter of choice! If you personally like the look and it suits your patio design then yes it is good for patios. In contrast to traditional paving slabs the multiple paving units create a more coarse visual texture. This can be more visually pleasing for smaller patios and pathways. The smaller units also provide the opportunities for circular patterns and curves. However I will say there are some distinct disadvantages for using block paving for patios. 
What are the disadvantages of using block paving for patios?Firstly block paving is susceptible to weed establishment and much more so than paving slabs. This is due to the great amount of sanded joins between the multiple blocks. As traditional slabs are bedded down on a ridged mortar bed the joints are sealed by mortar jointing. As block paving is laid upon compacted sand mortar pointing is not an option. This is because the flexibility of the compacted sand would lead joints to crack. This is why such flexible construction is typically best suited for driveways with disproportionately heavy loads. 
Consequently in respect to maintenance and weeding block paving is not the best option for patios.
You could lay individual blocks on solid mortar however such a patio would be challenging to level consistently. The multiple block units would also be extremely labour intensive to joint with mortar. Block paving unlike many natural stone and porcelain paving slabs are made from concrete. This means the colour dyes within the blocks will fade over time. This is because the suns UV rays bleach the colours within the blocks. The blocks subsequently fade in colour considerably after about a decade. This would also argue that natural stone paving and porcelain paving is better for patios than block paving. However it should be said that there are many concrete paving slabs with colour dyes which will also fade overtime. 
Block paving with worn colour dyes
If you decide to use either block paving or natural stone paving for patios comes down to personal choice. However I think the evidence is quite clear that block paving is not the best choice for a patio.
What is the best block paving for patios? 4 Great choices!Most of the time block paving is chosen for paving patios because it has a particular aesthetic. Many people love the multiple units and pleasant visual texture it provides. Consequently below I have listed the best types of block paving for patios. I have included options which are technically not block paving but cater to such an effect. These have been included because they provide the best visual alternative minus the discussed disadvantages of conventional block paving. I subsequently believe Clay pavers, natural setts, sandstone blocks and Tegula are the best block paving for patios. 1. Clay brick pavers
Clay brick pavers are not as commonly used today as they were in the past but are still available. These pavers are rather labour intensive to lay in large areas as they require jointing. However these brick paving are perfect for small courtyards and more traditional styles. The image below displays narrow brick pavers in a traditional English cottage garden. 
2. Tegula block paving
Tegula block pavers are conventional block paving and come in three main sizes. Also known by other names under different brands, a good example isBretts Alpha Trio range. These Block paving typically come in greyer colour tones. This means there is much less colour fading from UV radiation. Tegula block paving also has a much more attractive cobble effect than standard block paving. 
3. Natural setts
Technically not block paving at all but natural stone setts are probably the most robust block paving solution. These square blocks can create very attractive patio surfaces especially for a rustic effect. Natural stone sets however are very labour intensive and expensive to lay. Very often they can be laid with paving of a similar material. This makes them perfect for incorporating curved shaped patterns or bold borders to patios. 
4. Sandstone blocks
Sandstone blocks are typically made from Indian sandstone and create a natural stone block paving alternative. These Have the shape of a chunky brick but are very effective for paving patios with a block effect. The size, shape and texture of these blocks can create a really pleasant effect in courtyards or rustic garden designs. Sandstone blocks typically come in warm colour tones and look so much more sophisticated than typical block paving. 
Thank you for reading our article on the best block paving for patios! Below I will link to some other paving articles you may find useful.
'As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases'
Native landscaping, also known as natural landscaping, is becoming an ever popular concept within landscaping and gardening.
With a heightened awareness of environmental challenges many seek to regenerate natural landscapes historically altered by man. Past decades have brought a greater understanding of the vital interrelationships between landscapes and the organisms which live in them. Ecological systems which have taken millennia to evolve have kept food webs and landscapes healthy. However, these delicate interrelationships have been drastically altered and even eliminated entirely within a couple of centuries. Since the industrial revolution, mass habitat destruction and excessive combustion emissions has led to worrying warning signs. 
There is a growing understanding that reversing such damage will depend upon repairing mistakes of the past.
This will directly involve regenerating natural landscapes, wildlife habitats and ecological systems. Native landscaping very much brings this concept to life! Native and natural landscaping holds the first steps to solving the ecological crisis of the modern age. In this article I will explain what native landscaping is and what its benefits are. What is native landscaping?
Native landscaping is the creation of landscapes which implement naturally occurring landscapes and flora of a given region. This includes native plants as well as historical, geological and even micro-climatic elements of a given area. The objective of native landscaping is to replicate native landscape types and naturally occurring ecological systems. This consequently propagates self sustaining plant communities and food webs. Native landscapes therefore are more resilient and once established requiring almost no maintenance. 
This means they require less energy input, irrigation, pest control and cost to maintain. With an increased level of fauna and fauna native landscapes store more carbon and reduce herbicide and pesticide use.
Does native landscaping look nice?As with most Aesthetic admiration, what looks nice normally depends upon personal pre-conceived favourability, social ideals and learned behaviour. In the 17th century, wealthy Europeans loved formal landscaping with tightly clipped hedges and lawns. Such precise management of nature signified power and dominance over the natural world. It is no surprise Human civilisation spent the next three centuries decimating wild animal populations and natural habitats. Today however, such historical gardens are still admired for their order, geometry and beauty. It is recognised that many also find naturalistic landscapes beautiful. This can be seen with the popularity of dense forests, nature reserves and wetlands. Native landscaping may not cater for any one type of aesthetic garden design. However anyone who has an appreciation of natural ecology will think native and natural landscaping will look desirable. 
In the way some think wild meadows look fantastic while others think they look messy and unkempt. It is also important to remember native landscaping will look much different depending upon where in the world you live. If you live in Southern California your native garden may look more like an arid desert. However, if you are in Northern Europe you may have groups of small trees, meadows and dense, herbaceous, planting. It is important to remember there are many different ecological niches within whole countries or regions. For example, the mountains of Scotland will have different plant communities than Coastal England. Even smaller regions can have very diverse native fauna and flora depending upon local topography, geology and hydrology. Therefore, variations in native landscaping are not limited to a specific countries boundaries. This actually provides a huge range of landscape design potential for native landscaping. 
Well designed native landscaping will incorporate the best plant range for a particular site and soil type. It will also mix various planting and hard landscaping elements to make the design look as stunning as possible.
Native landscaping is not to simply to be desired from a solely aesthetic point of view. Such gardens are to be valued as living ecosystems and apart of the wider landscape. Native landscape schemes are also places to reconnect with nature and study local flora and fauna. Their beauty is derived from both an aesthetic and educational point of view. Why create a native landscape?
Native landscaping can be one of the best things you can do for the environment. Native landscape types and plants local to your area can help support natural ecosystems. This leads to a healthier environment with less pests and increased carbon sequestering from the atmosphere. This helps to improve air quality and reduce toxification of our atmosphere and climate change Native landscaping can also encourage the potential for wildlife habitat. This can add value to the landscape and encourage recreational pursuits and nature study. 
Native landscaping is more resilient to local climatic variations and requires less maintenance. This leads to less intensive energy input and costly maintenance regimes.
If designed well native landscapes can also look beautiful becoming a celebration of local landscape types and native flora. This can add an educational and cultural significance to outdoor spaces celebrating local and natural history. What are the benefits of native plants?
Native plants to a given region are far more adaptable to their surroundings and climatic conditions. Natives require less care, maintenance and water than plants not native to a specific region. Furthermore, native plants are much more likely to support local wildlife. This is because native fauna and flora have evolved together other many millennia. In some cases specific creatures will rely upon just a single plant species for food. 
How to design a native garden
When designing a native garden you will go through the same problem solving process of any other landscape design. Think about how you want people to use and move around the space first. This will enable you to design a basic structure. Then you will have to identify what natural or native landscape your site is best suited too. Ask yourself the question, what kind of natural landscape would have existed here 8 thousand years ago? If it was broadleaf woodland you may wish to create a nativewoodland garden. Or you may wish to grow shade loving herbaceous flowering plants. 
Our design for Yeading school eco garden with native landscaping
Research the local natural history of the area, you may find your site used to be a wetland. In such a case you may decide to create a series of natural ponds with native wetland plants.
When you have decided what kind of native landscaping you want to implement put pen to paper. Experiment with different ideas and forms until you have a fully resolved design. Exaggerate your native landscapes attributes
You may discover there are many different landscape types and ecological niches relevant to your area. This may provide the opportunity to have multiple native habitats within one garden. For example you may want to have raised rocky gardens if you have local mountainous terrain. At the same time you can also have wetlands which mimic more lowland areas. You may also decide to include land art or sculptures which celebrate the historical culture of the area. Exaggerating natural landscape features is a great way to implement effective native landscaping design. 
Native landscaping & soil
When people think of native landscaping they typically focus more upon climate. However a regions specific soil type can greatly affect what landscape and planting types you propose. For example woodlands with alkaline soil with have mostly differing species from those within acid soil in the same climate. Therefore some research and a soil testing kit will provide you some good background knowledge on your site. Try to find a geological map of your particular area; this will give you a clue as to what type of soil you have. The better suited your plants are to your soil type the more effective your native landscaping will be. 
Native landscaping & water
One of the most vital elements of native landscaping is hydrology and the moisture content of the soil. This will normally go hand in hand with local meteorology factors such as annual rainfall totals. If your landscape has a high water table you will want to choose native wetland and marginal plants. You may wish to go a step further and create various wetland types. These could be large ponds, small ponds, marginal, seasonally flooded, wetland meadow or swampy habitat. 
All regions will have specific plant and animal life endemic your particular location. You may wish to visit some local wetlands and take a note of which species are thriving there.
This rule also goes for dryer landscapes; get a feel for your sites seasonal hydrology and water table. This will guide both your landscape design and plant selection. Planting your native landscape
When planting your native landscaping scheme try to mimic nature as much as possible. It is very easy to try to plant native borders like traditional garden shrub borders. Plant in a way you would imagine a more natural habitat in your region would look. When specifying plants make sure your plants are not hybridised in any way. This can make them less useful to native creatures. There are now many specialised nurseries which specialise in wild native plants. It is never advised to take plants from the wild as this can be detrimental to the local environment. It is often also illegal. 
Create native habitats
One of the most interesting ways to implement native landscaping is to replicate native habitats within your region. Even in places with the same climate there are often many different ecological niches and habitats. These can be recreated in a garden form by manipulating microclimate, soil type and topography. A good idea is to also implement wildlife habitat and shelters such as log piles and nesting boxes. 
Maintenance and management
When it comes to native landscaping, you want as little intervention as possible. However, a level of maintenance at the beginning will allow plants to establish well. Soon after planting, aggressive weeds can try to dominate the area. Very often these pioneering weeds are not even native and will try to dominate cleared ground. Make sure your initial plantings are well maintained and weeded. These will typically gain strength and dominance the second year. It is good to keep a thorough management plan in place. This involves monitoring your plant communities to see what species adapt best. This process will help you reach a natural equilibrium between your native plants in their new habitat. Create an educational resource
Once you’re native landscaping project is up and running why not make it into an educational resource? You could put up information boards in front of various habitats and plant communities. Perhaps you could start a blog about your native garden and the species you have studied there! 
Studying your native garden
Now you have created your very own piece of natural history make sure you study it. You can learn so much by spending time managing and observing your project. After your native plants are planted observe what wildlife comes to visit. Maybe rare species will come and establish themselves in your ecological masterpiece! Thank you for reading our article on native landscaping, are you thinking of creating your own project? If so, why not tell us about it below in the comment section. Thank you! Useful native landscaping links
This article contains affiliate links
Drought tolerant landscaping is the creation of gardens and landscapes with a low water demand.
Contrary to common belief, drought tolerant gardens do not have to look like arid deserts. Even temperate regions such as northern North America and Europe can suffer long periods of drought during summer months. This results in many gallons of fresh drinking water being used for landscape irrigation every summer. Unknown to many, the planets fresh water is a fast declining resource! Of all the water on the entire globe only 2% is usable fresh drinking water. As the earth’s human population has doubled over the past 40 years fresh water demand is rapidly expanding! Furthermore average temperatures rising year on year demand for fresh water is continuing to increase. 
This has led to many environmentally conscious gardeners to reduce their water use.
Many millions of gallons of water is squandered on watering lawns and borders every year. This has accelerated a desire for more drought tolerant landscaping design. Not only can drought resistant gardens conserve water they can also reduce maintenance and look amazing. In this article I will summarise drought tolerant landscaping and offer some drought tolerant landscaping ideas for your own garden. What is drought tolerant landscaping?Drought tolerant landscaping is creating gardens and landscapes which require little or no irrigation. Primarily this involves planting drought tolerant plants or native plants adapted to your area. However, drought tolerant landscaping can also include water saving installations. Some of these can include water butts, mulching, drainage retention ponds and rain gardens. Many drought tolerant gardens are designed with an arid or desert design theme. This makes it easy to incorporate drought resistant planting types like succulents and Mediterranean planting. 
The extensive use of gravels and rocks reduce the need for lawns and defined flower borders. This dramatically reduces water consumption and lowers maintenance costs.
Such drought tolerant landscaping also helps to create warm microclimates and interesting visual textures. Why create a drought landscape?
The easy answer is they can be extremely low maintenance and still look amazing! If well designed drought tolerant landscaping requires less watering, weeding, cutting and pruning. By saving fresh drinking water you are also reducing your impact on the planet. Less use of mechanical gardening machinery such as mowers and clippers reduces energy consumption and consequently emissions. Dry and arid themed gardens also help to create warmer microclimates and increase usable space in your garden. Landscaping with rocks and gravels also means no walking mud and dirt around your backyard. 
10 tips and ideas for drought tolerant landscaping
1. Create a Mediterranean garden
The Mediterranean region is well known for its warm weather and arid landscape. Nearly every plant adapted to these regions has a remarkable drought tolerance. This makes Mediterranean gardens an effective design theme for drought tolerant landscaping. Not only will plants thrive without water, an emphasis on rocks and gravels will add visual texture and interest. Such arid landscaping will also create an exciting holiday feel! 
2. Harvest rain water run off
You may be creating a drought tolerant landscape to be eco-conscious or you may simply live within a dry climate. Either way, harvesting fresh rain water runoff can be an effective idea. This can enable you to store water for watering later when plants need it. Harvesting runoff from hard surfaces also stops water from running into flower beds. This can reduce excessive ground saturation in winter and drought resistant plants rotting. 
3. Create a succulent garden
Succulent gardens are becoming an increasingly popular way to plant drought tolerant landscaping schemes. These diverse group of plants have waxy coatings and fleshy leaves to store water in dry climates. Succulents come in a wide variety of interesting shapes, forms and colours. Their easy to look after nature and interesting shapes make them perfect for drought tolerant gardening. If you live in an area with substantial rainfall succulents can be grown in well drained soil in terracotta pots. 
My drought resistant succulent garden at my home
4. Improve your soil structure
There are normally two main types of drought tolerant garden landscaping; gardens which receive heavy rain with a desire to grow drought resistant plants and naturally dry regions with hot summers.
Both scenarios will benefit from improving the soils structure. In areas with heavy rainfall in winter grit and coarse sand can improve soils drainage. This can prevent drought resistant plants roots from rotting during the winter. In areas with very dry weather mixing in plenty of organic matter to soil can help to retain moisture during hot summers. 
5. Plant at a high densityPlanting plants at a higher density means less sunlight gets to the soils surface. This reduces it from drying out so fast during hot summers. Such planting reduces the need for excessive watering during the growing season. Low growing groundcovers also have this protective effect on the soil making growing areas more drought resistant. 
6. Create a rock gardenRock gardens and rockeries are also a great idea for drought tolerant landscaping. Rocks and stones allow more water to be diverted towards soil where plants are actually growing. Rocks also enable you to replicate landscapes that are typical of dry climates. Rocky alpine mountain sides and dry rocky deserts are an effective theme for drought resistant landscaping. Rockeries can be incorporated into mounds and raised beds around seating areas to create aesthetic displays. Why not visit our step by step guide on creating a raised alpine garden? 
7. Mulch your soil
Mulching the soil has two main functions when it comes to drought tolerant landscaping. Firstly, it prevents excessive sunlight drying out the soil during hot summers. This can help reduce watering and make existing plants more drought resistant. Secondly mulch helps to retain moisture near the soils surface. This enables the roots of plants to easily access water during even the driest summers. Mulches such as gravels also help to create an arid feel to your landscaping. 
8. Create a desert garden
Desert gardens are a really exciting way to implement a drought resistant landscaping scheme. Many varieties of drought resistant plants have fleshy leaves with dry waxy leaves. This is to store available water and prevent it escaping from the plant. This gives the plants a cacti look and really benefitting a desert theme! Rocks and dry gravel areas planted with plants like Agaves and succulents can also form excellent desert gardens. Why not visit out full guide article on creating drought resistant desert gardens here. 
9. Plant perennialsWhen it comes to drought resistant landscaping, perennial plants are an effective choice. By their very nature perennials come up every year re-growing from thick roots systems or bulbs. Consequently, once established, they unlikely to be affected by long dry spells during the summer months. Some perennials are more drought resistant than others; we have included some good species examples at the end of this article. When selecting perennials for your drought tolerant garden, research individual species for their preferred climatic range and drought tolerance. 
Bears breeches
10. Change your gardens levels
It’s surprising how moderate alterations to a gardens gradient can have a dramatic impact on ground moisture! By using falls and levels it is possible to manipulate where rain water flows too. This can be extremely advantageous when planning a drought tolerant landscape. If your garden suffers from severe droughts slope your levels down towards planting beds. If your site is saturated during the winter months, plant drought resistant plants to the top of slopes. Alternatively you can build raised beds which are too saturated during the winter. 
11. Add a drainage featureIt may seem counter intuitive to create a drainage or wetland feature within drought resistant landscaping. However, creating a drainage feature such as a swale or seasonally flooding pond can keep soil moisture more consistent. The problem with most gardens is their soil moisture fluctuates throughout the year. This is due to excessive surface run-off and underlying ground compaction. Consequently a drainage feature which helps soil to drain can be advantageous. This is especially so if drainage features fill retention ponds which can be tapped into during dry summers. 
12. Create a herb gardenMany herbs have evolved over millennia to have aromatic aromas to their leaves. This was to repel browsing animals such as goats from eating them. Many herbs come from arid climates with sparse vegetation meaning death by grazing was a real risk. The fact that such aromas made herbs more desirable to people is quite ironic. The arid regions where many aromatic herbs originate are consequently quite drought resistant. This makes creating a herb garden a great idea for drought tolerant landscaping projects. 
13. Plant drought resistant plants
Probably the most effective way to execute a drought resistant garden is to plant the correct plants. Drought resistant plants will enable you to have greenery and colour in the driest of summers. However, whether a plant is drought resistant or not will depend upon your climate and soil type. Just because a plant can tolerate drought in Greece doesn’t mean it will thrive in a boggy UK garden! Consequently you should analyse other features of drought resistant plant species. This includes soil type, climatic zones and minimum winter temperatures. Below I have listed 13 drought resistant plants for the UK and temperate climates! 
13 Drought resistant plants for the UK1. Sedum herbsfrude autumn joy
This perennial sedum is well known for its interesting foliage and attractive pink flowers during autumn. Sedumn herbsfrude re-sprouts from its base every spring creating plenty of seasonal change. Its leathery leaves have a waxy coating which prevents moisture loss. Like most sedums Herbsfrude stores water inside their fleshy leaves making them perfect for drought tolerant landscaping. This plant is extremely adaptable being able to tolerate many different climates and soil types. Autumn joy is also very low maintenance but will require the removal of the previous season’s foliage in winter. 
2. Agaves
Agaves are very impressive architectural plants which have very decorative and architectural foliage.
Originally from warm parts of Central America these cactus like plants are extremely drought tolerant. Their large, fleshy, leaves have sharp spines and in the correct conditions can grow to an impressive size. Agaves are also surprisingly hardy and tolerant of more temperate climates. As long as they are planted in well drained soil in a sunny sheltered position they often do well. These arid loving plants can make a real statement to a drought tolerant planting scheme. 
3. Rosemary
Rosemary is a very well herb and celebrated for its aromatic foliage often paired with meat dishes. However, Rosemary is also extremely underrated as a landscaping plant. This small to medium sized shrub has very course and dense foliage giving it a great visual texture. Being evergreen it can keep borders lush all year round and provide a real bounty for the kitchen. Rosemary can even be clipped into shapes, small hedges and even bonsai trees! This makes it one of the most versatile of plants for drought resistant gardens. Originally from the Mediterranean, once established, it can withstand any period of low rainfall and drought. 
4. SucculentsSucculents are an extremely diverse group of plants well adapted to many dry parts of the world. These plants store water within their fleshy leaves and can go many months without water. Not only are succulents very drought resistant they also are also extremely aesthetic. They have a wide variety of striking shapes and forms being popular as both indoor and landscape plants. Even better, their drought tolerance and slow growing nature makes them very low maintenance. This makes them an easy choice for any type of drought resistant landscaping project. 
5. Yucca gloriosaYucca gloriosa is a type of yucca plant native to the South Eastern North America. This palm like plant has sharp, sword like evergreen foliage which is extremely decorative and architectural. Also known as the Spanish dagger, Yucca gloriosa is visually effective in Tropical, Mediterranean or even Desert garden schemes. During midsummer this yucca produces tall flower spikes with clusters of large bell shaped flowers. Being extremely drought tolerant this plant is perfect for sunny and well drained growing conditions. Due to its sharp leave tips you may wish to trim leaf tips if you have young children. 
6. AgapanthusAgapanthus is a popular garden plant favoured for its rigid stems which support circular clusters of trumpet shaped blooms. Originally from South Africa it prefers a warm and sunny growing position. Due to them being a perennial from a warm climate they have good drought tolerance. This makes them a good choice for adding drama and surprise to drought resistant landscaping. If given a free draining soil and plenty of sunlight they are perfect for the front of borders, raised planters and pots. Agapanthus is also popular with pollinators making them good for local wildlife. 
7. Verbena
Verbena is a genus of flowering plants which are loved for their attractive and scented flowers. Verbenas typically display small flower clusters white range in shades of white, pink, purple through to red. One of the most popular verbenas in fashion at the moment is Verbena Bonariensis. This plant has a typical verbena form and like many verbenas is perennial. Its clusters of flowers hover above planting borders throughout the summer months. The flowers of most verbenas are scented and are extremely attractive to wildlife. Verbenas are well known for their drought tolerance and can easily withstand periods of no rain or irrigation. 
8. Lavender
Lavender is both a very much loved landscaping plant and aromatic herb. Originating from the Mediterranean region lavender has adapted to dry and arid environments. This has always made it very suitable for drought resistant borders and planting displays. Lavender has attractive blue grey foliage which forms a spreading clump. This makes it effective as a groundcover along paths and to the front of flowerbeds. During the summer it produces decorative purple flowers which are much loved by bees. This plant can give off a very pleasant scent during warm summer afternoons. 
9. Lambs earLambs ear is a low growing herbaceous perennial that has light grey and fury leaves. This unusual looking plant can create dense groundcovers and looks very effective in block plantings. Native to the Middle East this plant has become adapted to hot and sunny conditions. This makes lamb’s ears a good choice for utilising within drought resistant planting designs. During summer it produces tall flower spikes bearing small pink or purple flowers. Its bold foliage and spreading habit makes this plant perfect for creating contrast within a drought resistant border. 
10. SalviasSalvias are an extremely diverse group of plants which are both aromatic and ornamental. Both their foliage and flowers come in a wide variety of colours and shapes. One of the most common salvias is 'common sage' which is regularly grown for its culinary uses. However I have found that 'Spanish sage' has a much more pungent aroma and better for cooking. On the other hand there are many attractive types of salvia which are appreciated for their beautiful flowers. These include plants like Salvia Fulgens and Splendens. Salvias not only look attractive they are also very tolerant of dry soil. 
11. DaylilyDaylilies are attractive perennial plants which are extremely versatile and adaptable. With strap like leaves and large, Lilly like flowers they are a favourite for the flower border. Each flower lasts for a single day which explains their name. Typical flower colours include orange, yellow, red and even purple. The daylilies grow up from their crown and fibrous roots every spring. Their adaptability and perennial nature makes them quite drought resistant. Once established, Daylilies can make a suitable addition to drought resistant landscaping and planting schemes. 
12. Globe artichoke
Globe artichokes are a large perennial plants very closely related to the thistle. This plant is widely cultivated for its edible flower buds which are well known delicacy. Native to the Mediterranean, Globe artichokes are well adapted for warm and dry growing conditions. They have extremely long tap roots which enable them to tap into moisture well below the soils surface. This makes them extremely drought resistant and ideal for dry well drained soil. The globe artichoke also has very attractive silvery and architectural foliage. This makes it a perfect plant for dry gardens where it can look good and even provide a tasty crop! 
13. Rudbeckia
This perennial plant is favoured for its large daisy like flowers and hardy nature. Originally from North America, Rudbeckia can tolerate cold temperatures and can adapt to many various soil types. Also known as Black –eyed Susan or Coneflower they make a perfect addition to perennial meadows and flower borders. Not only do their large flowers look stunning they are also very popular with pollinating insects. Once established these herbaceous perennials are very drought tolerant during dry summers. 
Thank you for reading our article guide on drought tolerant landscaping. Below we have included some other articles you may find relevant.
'As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases'.
|
The
|
Serving the landscapes of Buckinghamshire, Amersham, Aylesbury & High Wycombe
Hyde Heath, Amersham, Buckinghamshire |
|