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Excess water in the garden can cause a range of negative issues. Poor drainage can lead to boggy soil and challenging growing conditions for plants. Most of the time, garden hydrology is predetermined by multiple, contextual factors.
Factors such as climate, topography and soil type all contribute to sites drainage fundamentals. However there are many manmade garden installations which can contribute to poor drainage. Extensive hard surfacing, excess local development, compaction and level changes can all affect drainage. Whether excess water in your garden is natural or manmade there are many ways to deal with it. Not only can garden drainage solutions be functional they can also be fun and aesthetic. In fact there are many exciting drainage ideas which can actually become a part of a gardens design. In this article we will list and describe 13 great garden ideas to solve and even celebrate garden drainage issues. 1. Rain gardens
Rain gardens are landscaped areas of the garden designed to accept and channel excess rainwater. This is typically executed by channelling roof guttering and patio drainage into small water gardens. These can become very decorative landscape features which celebrate the hydraulic cycle. A popular rain garden theme is a pebble pond which fills up during heavy rain. Garden drainage can also be channelled into manmade streams which look like river beds. Rain gardens can be planted with wetland plants and can become valuable wildlife habitat. These are a great way to implement a sustainable drainage strategy around the home. 
2. Dry gardens
Dry gardens are normally associated with Mediterranean designs and arid landscape schemes. However their extensive use of gravels makes them very suited to aid garden drainage. Raised rock beds and rockeries can divert excess rainwater down into drainage gulley's and garden soakaways. Surfacing expansive areas with gravel can make it much easier for surface water to drain easily. Dry gardens can become great places to create succulent, garden, displays. They are also fantastic for creating warm microclimates around patios and seating areas. 
3. Bioswales
Bioswales are gently, sculpted, depressions or ditches which absorb surface runoff slowly. These swales are planted with native wetland plants which help to provide valuable wetland habitat. Bioswales have been utilised to help clean polluted storm water runoff from urban areas. Contaminants such as diesel, engine oil, dog faeces and dangerous metals are filtered naturally by wetland plants. This makes bioswales an ecological solution to landscape drainage. In a garden setting bioswales can make a good substitute to soakaways and provide important wildlife habitat. 
4. Seasonal flooding wetlands
Seasonal flooding wetlands are similar in principle to bioswales. In times of heavy rain these dry ponds fill and allow water to slowly reabsorb into the ground. Seasonal flooding wetlands replicate a habitat type which was once common but now extremely rare. There are many species of insect and invertebrate which rely upon seasonally flooding habitat to complete their life cycles. These drainage features are a great ecological substitute for conventional soakaways . They can be designed as landscape depressions or larger pond areas. 
5. Wildlife retention ponds
Wildlife retention ponds are similar to regular wildlife ponds but with extra capacity built in. This is typically done by sinking ponds lower down, into the ground. This gives them extra filling capacity during times of heavy rain. The higher sides of the pond can be planted with marginal plants which may submerge during the winter months. The retention ponds allow you to channel garden drainage systems straight into the pond basin. During the summer months retention ponds provide a good supply of non chlorinated water for landscape irrigation. 
6. Drainage gulley’s
Drainage gulleys can come in a wide range of forms, materials and designs. Gulleys are generally shallow depressions formed into borders and hard surfacing to channel water. This could be on the edge of a patio or to direct surface water into a retention pond. Drainage gulley's have extra potential to form decorative garden drainage features. These can range from gravel streams to aesthetic patio channels formed with mosaic tiles. Drainage gulley's can also be formed using wet mortar with small pebbles set into the surface. 
7. Soakaway crates
Soakaway crates are modern drainage systems designed to retain and store drainage water. These rigid and robust plastic structures clip together to form extensive drainage soakaways. Traditionally soakaways were merely cubic metre excavations filled with masonry and rubble. The problem with these soakaways was much of the void was already full. This resulted in rapid filling during times of heavy rain, large gaps also meant they silted up easily. Soakaway crates when full hold up to 97% of their volume in water. This makes them the perfect way to collect and store water collected from garden drainage systems. 
8. Sunken gabions
Gabions have become a popular landscaping feature in many garden and larger landscape projects. Traditionally these are used as retaining features and to create high, physical, boundaries. However gabions can also be used as drainage features set into the landscape. This is achieved by setting them in flush to the ground level. This can be done within a lawn or even a paved surface. Laid in a line they can create a free flowing passage to drainage discharge. Normally using gabions in this way will require smaller rock aggregates so they can still be walked upon. Filtration fabric should also be applied to all sides in contact with the soil to prevent silting. 
9. Gravel edging borders
Gravel borders are a great way to transition from one surface to another. A typical example of his is where paving meets lawn or lawn meets flower border. Such gravel borders are normally formed and separated by thin garden edging. This is typically stainless steel or timber, gravel, board, edging. However, a very underrated utility of gravel borders is their ability to create inconspicuous drainage channels. These can encase submerged drainage channels consisting of free draining aggregate and perforated pipe. Such channels can feed directly into garden drains, swales or soakaways. 
10. Bog gardens
Bog gardens can be a great way to add an extra diverse habitat next to an existing wildlife pond. Bogs and swamps were once common before land was extensively drained for modern agriculture. Bogs are similar to ponds but filled with soil and water to create continuous boggy conditions. Many bog plants are highly specialised and have attractive flowers and foliage. Bog gardens are perfect for plumbing into garden channels and drainage systems. The seasonal and transient flooding during high rainfall replicates what occurs in natural bog habitats. 
11. Raising your garden level
If you have poor garden drainage and boggy ground a good idea is to raise your garden level. Very often surface water runs to the lowest point within the landscape. If your garden falls within a low spot it will naturally have boggy conditions. Try to gauge visually the surrounding levels around your property. Are all your neighbours higher than you? If so raising your gardens level will certainly help. To raise your gardens level more than a few inches you will have to install retaining garden edging. This can be achieved with Bricks, clocks, sleepers or concrete garden edging. The centre of the garden can then be raised with good quality, free draining, topsoil. 
12. Re-levelling
It is very common for undulating gardens of varying levels to suffer with poor drainage. This is because pockets of surface water become trapped with nowhere to escape. Typically these damp areas become more compacted and impervious over time. This is especially so if your garden has clay soil. The best way to remedy this is with re-levelling your gardens gradient. Most gardens do not have to be perfectly level they just need a flush gradient. This will ensure rain water will flow consistently over the whole garden and drain away. Any low spots or divots will capture water leading to boggy conditions. 
13. Improving soil drainage
Making sure your soil drains well can be a fundamental factor in draining your garden successfully. Very often gardens and especially lawns become too over compacted after years of foot fall. This can lead to ground which drains poorly. Some soils drain better than others, clay is infamous for poor drainage while sandy loam and chalk drain well. Whatever your soil conditions are, mixing in large quantities of organic matter, coarse sand and grit will help. This should be accompanied with digging and rotavating. 
Thank you for reading our article on 13 great ideas for garden drainage. For more information on garden drainage solutions we have listed some other relevant articles below. If you found this information useful please share it via the social icons below. Thank you!
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Growing your very own fresh vegetables is one of the many joys of gardening. However producing the perfect crops is not always an exact science.
It takes years of knowledge, skill and trial and error to get things just perfect. Even so, during some seasons a particular crop will grow well and in other years not do so well. Vegetable gardeners are always learning and nothing is predictable. This means vegetable growers have to master every fundamental element to give them the best chance of bountiful harvests. One of the most crucial of these is soil drainage. Too wet and vegetables can rot, too dry and crops can fail to produce. Hence vegetable garden drainage is a very important aspect of productive crop growing. Here I will explore methods of vegetable, garden, drainage so you can grow the perfect crops in any soil! Raised drills
If your vegetable plots are suffering from boggy conditions a simple solution is formed raised drills. Not only do these raised mounds of soil drain more effectively they can lead to larger crops. The extra soil depth provides more growing space for roots to absorb nutrients. This type of vegetable growing is also optimum for root crops such as carrots, parsnips and potatoes. Excavate out channels in spring and heap up the spoil in linear drills. These will provide much better vegetable garden drainage in boggy soil. 
Species selection
A fundamental part of successful vegetable gardening is understanding the needs of each vegetable variety. Some crops prefer better drained soil than others while some like higher levels of moisture. Vegetables like lettuce, spinach, kale and cabbages prefer moisture retentive soil conditions. Crops such as corn, rocket, onions and carrots are more suited to drier, well drained conditions. Selecting the right species for the right moisture content can be paramount. If your vegetable plot is on a gradient grow rows of moisture loving crops along the low contour. Plants more suited to drier conditions can then be planted along the higher contours. 
Double digging
Double digging is a system of soil improvement where the ground is excavated two spade depths or spits deep. Such deep digging to a depth of around 400mm breaks open the soils natural hard pan. The hard pan is a compressed layer of ground which can prevent plants from reaching vital nutrients. The hard pan can also be impervious to water reducing the soils capacity to drain. As a long trench is excavated to the desired depth, manure and organic matter is laid in the base. A new trench is then excavated next to the previous, filling in the previous trench with excavated spoil from the new. This provides deeply worked soil which is nutrient rich with improved levels of drainage. Double digging is extremely effective at improving drainage for vegetable plots. 
Rotavating
Rotavating the soil with a rotavator is an effective way to improve soil drainage within your vegetable garden. This is especially so if your garden has clay soil. Rotavating breaks up soil particles which improves water permeability. This action will also open the ground up to further amelioration which can boost fertility and excel drainage. Rotavating organic matter into the soil is an optimum strategy for achieving this. 
Organic matter
Organic matter worked deeply into vegetable gardens can really improve water permeability. Materials such as leaf mould, compost, rotted manure and even bark chips can all work well. These materials can prevent soil particles from sticking together and forming compacted clods. Organic matter added over time can also boost soil ecology which will further improve soil texture. As well as improving vegetable gardens drainage organic matter will also boost a soils fertility. 
Sand & Grit
Course sand and horticultural grit are staple ways to improve drainage in boggy soil. In order to be effective you will need to work in a sizable amount. This is best done while rotavating the soils surface. This will ensure as many soil particles as possible are mixed with the free draining material. The most cost effective method is by ordering jumbo bags of sharp sand from builder’s merchants. 
Raised beds
If your vegetable garden is often waterlogged it may be best to build raised vegetable beds. These can be built with timber sleepers, concrete or brick. As well as creating well drained growing plots they provide the opportunity to choose your own soil. This can be a life line if your local soil type is challenging. Typically raised beds can be filled with a compost, topsoil mix which is perfect for growing vegetables. How high you build your growing beds can reflect how bad your garden drainage is. Raised beds can actually improve your garden drainage as a whole by providing greater moisture absorption. 
Orientation and gradient
If your vegetable garden suffers with poor drainage you may have to assess its orientation and gradient. It has been shown that sloping ground facing into the sun has significantly better drainage. This is because the soil heats up well from the micro-climatic effect. The soils gradient also allows excess water to drain away freely during heavy rain. If your vegetable plot is flat create a retaining wall on the Northern side, (South in southern hemisphere). Then grade and fill soil where necessary to form a sunny slope. Not only will your vegetable garden drain better but it will also become warmer and brighter. 
Large containers
If you do not have the budget to install raised beds, large containers are a good alternative. Depending on how poor your garden drainage is, containers can be sunk down into the soil. This will provide well drained, vegetable, growing, areas, while still allowing crops to draw up moisture from the underlying soil. This is a particularly effective strategy for root crops such as carrots, parsnips and potatoes. 
Install drainage channels
If your vegetable garden has become increasingly waterlogged over time a drainage system could be a good solution. Today poor drainage is an ever increasing problem with extensive hard surfacing and high rainfall. Particularly in residential areas the ability for gardens to absorb surface run off is becoming increasingly challenging. An effective way to drain a vegetable garden is by installing drainage channels. These provide free draining voids for excess storm water to flow to. These consist of linear excavations lined with perforated pipes and filled with free draining gravel. Depending on the severity of your water logging you may need to plumb channels into a garden soakaway. 
Soakaways
Garden drainage Soakaways may be needed if you garden has ongoing drainage issues. Most of the time serious water logging is a result of water having nowhere to run. Drainage channels alone may simply fill up to the top with limited benefit. In such circumstances soakaway crate systems should be installed. Crate systems are robust plastic structures which hold up to 97% of their capacity in water. A cubic metre garden soakaway creates a large void for drainage channels and pipes to drain into. Such systems are typically perfectly adequate to drain boggy gardens including vegetable plots. 
Garden drainage services & drainage contractors in Buckinghamshire
Buckinghamshire landscape gardeners are experts in garden drainage and provide a number of garden drainage solutions. Our garden drainage services include;
Our garden drainage services cover most of Buckinghamshire including:
Thank you for reading our article on how to improve drainage in your vegetable garden. If you found it informative and helpful, why not share it via the icons below? For further reading on garden drainage we have linked to some of our other articles below.
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1. Relieve garden compaction
One of the biggest causes of poor garden drainage is compaction. When soil is subject to heavy use and damp conditions soil particles become compacted. This leads to the soil to becoming capped and impervious. Such conditions typically leads to excessive run off and standing water in times of heavy rain. One of the best ways of alleviating compaction is to rotovate the soil and mix in plenty of sharp sand and organic material. 
2. Improve your garden soilGeneral soil improvement is a sure way to improve garden drainage. Natural topsoil is made up of a combination of rock particles, organic matter and microscopic life. Depending on your local geology your soil may or may not be good quality or well drained. Whatever your soils condition garden drainage can be enhanced by working in organic matter such as compost. Free draining aggregates such as sharp sand and grit can also help to improve soil and increase drainage. 
3. Create a free draining layer
When it comes to gardens drainage it is rare for a whole garden to be waterlogged. Normally it is one specific zone which suffers from damp conditions. This is particularly the case with undulating gardens and clay soil. One of the best ways to deal with this is by creating a free draining layer. This is common practice on professional sports pitches within stadiums. A layer of free draining material such as sharp sand is spread a couple of inches under the surface. This gives excess water a channel of escape from a particular boggy area. The drainage layer helps to distribute moisture evenly throughout the ground. 
4. Re-level your gardenOne of the most common reasons for garden drainage problems is levels. Very often gentle gradients channel surface water into specific areas. These can become saturated and boggy in times of rain. The best scenario for perfect garden drainage is an even gradient. This way, surface water is unable to collect or be trapped in any particular location. The most effective way to re-level your garden is by installing level edging to the sites perimeter. The central ground can then be levelled perfectly between the level edgings. A straight edge or string line can allow you a method of checking your levels as you work. 
5. Raise your gardens levelA very common scenario in gardens that do not drain well is that surrounding properties are higher. If the gardens surrounding your home have a higher level, water will run to the lowest point. This is even the case if you are only lower by only a couple of centimetres. In such a case it is probably a good idea to raise you gardens level. This can be done by installing perimeter, retaining edges and filling your garden with free draining topsoil. There is no need to raise it to extreme heights just enough to meet surrounding gardens levels. This will enable excess water to be absorbed gradually by surrounding properties. 
6. Create raised beds
Many gardens with poor drainage simply do not have enough quality topsoil to absorb excess rainwater. Today excessive hard surfaces and a reduction in traditional gardening have led to less water absorption. Gardens have become subject to extensive surfacing and minimalist design themes. These problems do not recognise gardens boundaries and are typically localised. The more impermeable surfaces an area has the greatest chance the surrounding soil will become saturated. A great way to address this is by installing raised garden beds. These can provide well drained growing borders at a desirable growing height. When filled with good quality topsoil they can help to draw out excessive water from lower ground levels. 
7. Mulch with bark chippings
Mulching your borders with bark chippings is well known for suppressing garden weeds and protecting plant roots. Furthermore mulching can also directly help to improve a gardens drainage. Bark chippings slowly degrade over time invigorating soil ecology. This leads to more soil dwelling creatures which help to form air pockets and improve the soils structure. This leads to better quality topsoil which greatly improves garden drainage. Mulch can also prevent soil from becoming too compacted and allow surface water to evaporate easily. 
8. Create a drainage channelMost of the time solutions to poor garden drainage involve two things; transporting water away from a given area and providing water somewhere to go. Garden drainage channels can provide both of these making them of the best garden drainage solutions. These consist of linear excavations which house perforated drainage pipes. Channels are then backfilled with free draining aggregates, lined with filtration membrane and capped with soil. These free draining channels allow hydraulic pressure in the ground to seep into the drainage channel. Ground water can then be slowly drained from a given area; such systems are particularly affective for lawn drainage. Drainage channels can directly feed greater drainage networks, soakaways or created on such a scale they act as linear soakaways. 
9. Give water somewhere to go
Any rain water which cannot be absorbed by the ground naturally will lead to boggy conditions. One of the very best ways to deal with excess water is providing a means for it to escape. I always ask a fundamental drainage question; where does the water naturally want to go? Look at your gardens levels and landform, where would water naturally run too? Once you have identified the lowest point you will have to provide some sort of a collection vessel. This could be a garden drain, wetland swale or soakaway. If local drainage policy does not allow you to connect to the network, you will typically need to install a soakaway. 
10. Install a soakawaySoakaways are the most efficient ways of getting rid of excess storm water on site. Traditionally soakaways were simply excavations filled with broken bricks and builder’s rubble. The problem with these basic soakaways is they soon became silted up. Furthermore the majority of the excavation was filled with masonry materials providing less water capacity. This meant they soon became overwhelmed during periods of heavy rain. Today soakaways are made up of drainage crates which consist of a rigid plastic structure. These drainage crates hold a maximum volume of water of up to 97% of the structure. This makes them far superior to old rubble systems. Soakaways are typically built to a size of 1m cube, this provides adequate drainage capacity for most garden, drainage, requirements. Why not read our step by step guide on how to install a garden soakaway here. 
11. Artificial grassArtificial grass can be a way of replacing a boggy, garden lawn with a firm and robust surface. However it is actually false that installing an artificial lawn will improve your gardens drainage. It will however make the artificial lawn itself sturdy and robust as it will have a secure base. Artificial lawn actually needs to have a base not that different from a new patio. This can actually reduce the ability of your garden to absorb excess storm water. Therefore for an artificial lawn to replace a boggy lawn successfully it is advised to incorporate a drainage system. This could be drainage grates or drainage channels plumbed into a nearby soakaway. With such an accompanying drainage strategy, artificial lawn is a great way to replace a boggy lawn. 
12. Gravel surfacesGravel surfaces unlike most surfaces allow rain water to permeate into the ground. This reduces water runoff overwhelming the soils natural absorption capacity. Gravel surfaces also allow water to pass through them easily reducing standing water in times of heavy rain. Gravel surfaces can be laid over drainage channels and collect excess water from the surrounding landscape. Gravel patios, driveways and pathways are a great permeable alternative to hard surfaces and help improve your gardens drainage. 
Garden drainage services & drainage contractors in Buckinghamshire
Buckinghamshire landscape gardeners are experts in garden drainage and provide a number of garden drainage solutions. Our garden drainage services include;
Our garden drainage services cover most of Buckinghamshire including:
Thank you for reading our article on 12 ways to improve your gardens drainage. We have included many other in depth articles on how to improve your gardens drainage below.
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Patio drainage systems are not always on the radar when planning a new garden patio. It is very important to plan for where surface water will run in the likely event of heavy rainfall.
This is especially so is you are implementing an area of paving over what was originally soil. Lawns and flower borders have a natural ability to absorb rain water. In contrast patios accelerate surface run off and can contribute to flooding and drainage problems. If new amounts of storm water are sitting against your home you could develop a damp problem. Most modern local authorities do not allow you to direct surface runoff into the drainage network. This is because these networks are becoming frequently overwhelmed with an expansion of urban development. Therefore implementing a patio drainage system properly is extremely important for your project. In this article I will explain everything you need to know for implementing an effective patio drainage system. 
Planning a patio
When planning for a new patio considering a drainage strategy is not always the first priority. However planning for patio drainage at this stage will prevent potential drainage problems later. One of the most fundamental considerations is the existing levels of your site. Where does surface water run to in times of heavy rain? Does water fall towards your home? Do you have standing water in times of wet weather or is your ground well drained? At the planning stage of a new patio it is wise to ask the simple question; ‘where will the water go’? You will certainly want to avoid trapping surface water against a wall or building! Are you happy with falling the patio onto your grass? This is fine if you already have well drained soil, but if not, you could end up with a boggy lawn. Therefore it is always important to conceive patio drainage from the outset of the project. 
Assessing existing site hydrology
One of the first steps to working out a patio drainage strategy is understanding your sites hydrology. Do you have existing damp or boggy conditions? Do you have clay soil? If so, you may have to think about a greater drainage strategy to provide excess water somewhere to go. This could be a soakaway or seasonally flooding landscape feature. This will enable you to channel storm water from your paving straight to a holding facility. This will also help to alleviate flooding in softer landscaping areas such as flowerbeds. If you live in a flood risk zone or are close to natural watercourses you could have a high water table. If so it is important to realise that draining your patio into a soakaway may not be effective. In High water table areas soakaways can simply fill to the top through ground saturation. 
This can lead into overflowing gulley’s and drainage channels. In such circumstances your local authority may provide permission to pipe storm water off site.
However the most effective way to assess your gardens hydrology is with levels. Try to get an understating of your gardens landform and gradients. This will enable you to gauge where storm water will run in times of heavy rain. Ideally patios should direct surface run-off where it can be naturally absorbed by the ground. Good patio drainage should ensure no water is standing against buildings and is diverted to a natural saturation zone. Impermeable verses permeable paving
Permeable paving is paving which allows water to pass through its surface. This has many benefits such as reducing the velocity of surface run off. Most of the time permeable paving will reduce the need for a patio drainage strategy. However the subject of permeable paving is not as simplistic as many make out. Firstly most permeable paving is simply paving with larger, open, joints filled with free draining aggregate. 
These extra large gaps typically fill with dirt and debris and lead to weed establishment. Furthermore the base the paving is laid upon is very rarely fully permeable.
This means such paving can help reduce run off velocity but is technically not permeable. I find this is also the case with resin bound, aggregate, patios. The open textures and gaps of these surfaces normally lead to the build up of dirt. The most ecological drainage solution in my opinion is using impermeable paving with run off channelled into wetland, habitat, features. A well designed patio drainage system can engineer such an outcome very effectively. Patio drainage strategy
The first step to implementing an effective patio drainage strategy is having clear objectives. The basic fundamentals will include how to collect surface water and where it should be directed. If your patio is sloping towards your building you will want to avoid water sitting against your home. Therefore a linear, Acco chamber with removable grates is an effective solution. In such a case these will have to be plumbed into a pipe which transports water to its destination. This is normally a soak away of some description. Ultimately the best destination for surface water is somewhere down hill! This means you will have gravity on your side when getting water away from your patio. Below we discuss the best products and methods for effective patio drainage. These will both collect surface water and transport it to its final destination. 
Garden drains
Garden drains come in many various forms and sizes. The most typical of these are the square 100mm square chambers. These traditionally accept surface runoff from roofs and gutter systems. In the past most new patio installations would simply plumb straight into these. Drainage chambers with grates such as the typical Acco chambers would collect water and connect directly to the drain. However doing this can actually overwhelm existing soakaways and even public drainage networks. 
This can lead to pollutants from surfaces finding their way into natural watercourses. Therefore a new patio should really come with a drainage system plumbed into its own soakaway.
This could also be a retention pond, seasonal flooding wetland or submerged irrigation tank. Most new patios warrant a full assessment of existing drains for blockages and overall condition. Cracked or degraded drains should be reworked with impervious materials and mortar finishes. This is to reduce germs, bad odours and create a neat and professional finish. Sump drain
Patio sump drains are where small drains are installed to the lowest part of surface to collect surface water. Sump drains were typical especially in decades past where concreting was a more popular surfacing material. However today, new patio installations seek to keep the level on a flush and consistent gradient. This is much more clean and professional especially when aiming for a more contemporary look. Sump drains do deserve a mention however they are not typically considered within modern, patio, drainage. 
Patio gulleys
Patio drainage gulley’s are typically shallow depressions in surfaces which collect and divert surface water. Unlike most drainage installations these can be subtle and even artistic in their execution. The simplest form of drainage gulley is by simply pressing a pipe into mortar to create a depression. If you are using smaller paving units such as setts these can be formed into a linear gulley. Alternatively different materials can be used such as coloured gravels set into mortar or mosaic, tile work. 
Patio drainage grates
Patio drainage grates and grills are effectively engineered, channel units, which allow storm water to be collected and diverted. They normally come in 1 metre sections and come with either a metal or plastic grill or grate. The most typical use for these is collecting water that would otherwise fall towards a building. If installed well, patio drainage grates can look very effective by adding visual contrast to paving. This is especially so with contemporary schemes using smooth materials such as slate and porcelain. 
Patio drainage pipes
Most of the time patio drainage pipes facilitate a single function. This is to transport water from a collection point to a destination, normally a soakaway. For the average patio drainage installation a 50mm plastic ground pipe is usually adequate. This also provides you a comfortable circumference to plumb into drainage grills and patio drains. Pipe work can run underneath paving but if running through flower borders, make sure they are set deep enough to avoid damage. For much larger patios above 200 square metres consider plumbing into a larger 110mm diameter ground pipe. If your patio drainage integrates into wider landscape drainage you may also connect to larger sections of 100mm perforated pipe. 
Patio French drains
French drains consist of excavated drainage channels and backfilled with free draining gravel around a central pipe. The pipe is typically perforated meaning it has many small holes to collect water. Conventionally French drains are effective at draining saturated ground of excess water. This is especially so on soils which soak up and retain moisture like clay. French drains can integrate with patio drainage systems and work apart of a greater landscape drainage strategy. However if you have the opposite problem of a garden being too well drained they can also benefit. Patio drainage systems can discharge straight into French drains which travel under flower borders. This can act as an irrigation channel and help to saturate dry planting areas. 
Soakaway installation for patios
Most of the time new patios will need a soakaway to deal with surface run off. This is especially the case if a proposed patio is replacing soft landscaping such as lawns and borders. The most common scenario for patio drainage soakaways is the patio is laid to a slight fall. The fall gently allows surface water to flow into linear drainage channels with grates. Normally a 50mm ground pipe with a 90 degree pipe elbow is connected to under the lowest drainage grate. This will then connect to a ground pipe which feeds the soakaway. 
The soakaway is normally located downhill or in an area of soft landscaping such as a lawn. It is a common practice to avoid installing soakaways 5 metres from a building or boundary.
The best soakaways for patio drainage systems are plastic drainage crates. These typically come in 400x500x1000mm sections 4 of which can be attached to create a 1 metre cube. This is then wrapped in filtration membrane and buried deeply into the ground. Patio drainage systems can then be piped straight into the soakaway. These are able to collect and hold large amounts of storm water in times of heavy rainfall. Bioswales
A bioswale is a vegetated, linear, landscape, depression which is designed to channel and absorb storm water. Bioswales unlike standard swales and ditches clean polluted runoff water by filtering it through wetland plants. Plant roots and microorganisms help to break down pollutants and allow water to be cleaned ecologically. This allows the water to pass back into the hydraulic cycle gradually and safely. The added benefit of bioswales is they actually provide great natural habits for wildlife. This is especially so for reptiles, amphibians and birds. In a garden context patios can drain directly into a bioswale system which can be planted with wetland plants. If designed well these can become decorative garden features and great for wildlife! 
Seasonal flooding wetlands
Seasonal flooding wetlands are an ecological drainage feature and very similar to bio swales. These are simply pond like depressions which fill up seasonally or in times of heavy rain. Similar to soakaways they can hold large quantities of water and allow it to be slowly reabsorbed by the landscape. Seasonal flooding wetlands are actually a rare habitat which was once common. A combination of urban development and modern farming has led to them now being rare. There are a number of small creatures which rely on such habitats to complete their lifecycles. If you are passionate about conservation perhaps your patio could drain into such a habitat feature. 
Retention ponds
Retention ponds are basically garden ponds which are designed to accept excess drainage water. This could be from land drainage systems as well as guttering and patio drainage. These can be wildlife ponds which have high, sloping, sides which can fill up in times of heavy rain. Retention ponds can also be more formal ponds which can be connected to garden irrigation systems in summer. Instead of plumbing patio drainage into a soakaway why not store the water in a retention pond instead? 
Garden drainage services & drainage contractors in Buckinghamshire
Buckinghamshire landscape gardeners are experts in garden drainage and provide a number of garden drainage solutions. Our garden drainage services include;
Our garden drainage services cover most of Buckinghamshire including:
Thank you for reading our article on patio drainage systems. If you found it useful why not share it via social media? We have included some extra related articles which you may also find useful below. Thank you!
'As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases'
This article contains affiliate links
Most of the time garden drainage solutions involve transporting unwanted water to a destination drain.
The fastest and most efficient way to do this is with garden drainage pipes. However it is important to recognise that there are a range of different drainage pipes for varying circumstances. The specification of a particular garden, drainage, pipe, used will reflect the specific drainage solution. Here we will explain what the different types of garden drainage pipe are and what circumstances require their installation What is the best pipe for garden drainage?
The best type of pipe for garden drainage is plastic, PVC pipes. These have a high resistance to chemical degradation, damp conditions and have a high compressive strength. This makes them the perfect candidate for a wide variety of garden drainage projects. However the specification of PVC pipe you will need will depend upon your specific drainage issue. There are two main types of garden or landscape drainage pipe; solid, ground pipe and perforated drainage pipe. 
50mm PVC Ground pipe plumbed into drainage grills
Perforated pipe feed connected to a garden drainage soakaway
Perforated pipe
Perforated pipes have small holes or slits along the body of the pipe to draw in surrounding water. These are most effective for use in saturated ground such as lawn drainage projects. The surrounding hydraulic pressure within the ground allows water to permeate into the pipe and be channelled away. These are typically laid in excavated drainage channels and backfilled with free draining gravels. The most typical perforated pipe is 100mm and 50mm in diameter and normally comes in 25 metre coils. 
Solid ground pipe
The second type of drainage pipe is a solid ground pipe. These have a greater thickness to resist accidental impact and tolerate surrounding ground pressure. Solid drainage pipes have a transportation function directing water to its destination drain. The most common scenario for their implementation is connecting drainage gullies and grills to soakaway systems. These come in a variety of diameters to suit the perceived quantity of water capacity. For larger landscape drainage 100mm diameter drainage pipes and larger can be installed. However for smaller patio drainage systems 50mm diameter is normally adequate. 
Garden drainage pipe connectors
All garden drainage pipes come with come with corresponding pipe connectors and attachments. There are a wide variety of pipe connections including elbows, tees, unions, crosses and reducers. These are particularly useful for larger, landscape scale, drainage systems. Connectors such as tees are particularly effective for grid drainage systems used to drain sports pitches. You can find corresponding pipe connectors for both ground pipes and perforated drainage pipes. 
50mm PVC drainage pipe with elbow connector plumbed into drainage grate gully
Drainage pipe adaptors
When installing garden drainage systems it is a common need to adjoin pipes of conflicting sizes. This could be because you are connecting a new drainage system to an old network. Occasionally old pipes are a completely different material and size to modern PVC pipes. Therefore it is typical to have to utilise drainage pipe adaptors. These are typically rubber cylinders with varying sized openings to seal two conflicting pipes together. Adapters are tightened shut with jubilee clips which create a tight seal around each pipe opening. There has been a rubber adapter manufactured for pretty much every pipe adaption circumstance. 
Land drain drainage pipe
Historically when building new urban development’s small, natural watercourses were discovered. These were sometimes only mere trickles of water or small streams which only flowed during winter. To prevent boggy conditions contractors channelled such water courses into simple land drains. Many of these were simply a series of clay pipes laid in a channel within the ground leading to watercourses. If you live within a river basin you very well may have old land drains running through your property. It is very common for old land drains to become silted up or broken causing garden drainage problems. 
Clay drainage pipes
Clay drainage pipes were the drainage pipe of choice before the adoption of plastic PVC pipes. Clay drainage pipes are some of the most common pipes to encounter under the ground when digging 
Why is there a clay pipe in my garden?
There are three reasons why you may find a clay pipe submerged in your garden. A redundant pipe A redundant pipe is an old pipe which is no longer in use. It can also be an old drainage system which has completely silted up solid. Occasionally old broken pipes are buried under the ground giving the impression they are connected somewhere. If you find a clay pipe excavate along its length until you find the end. If the pipe is completely silted it is redundant. A land drain or old drainage system A land drain which is still providing some function will be fully intact and not silted. If your garden already has boggy conditions it could be because the land drain is blocked. Excavate around the pipe and see what direction it travels. If it heads directly towards a drain or gutter it is probably feeding a drain or soakaway. A soil pipe or sewage pipe The most important type of buried clay pipe is a sewer pipe. This is the type of clay pipe you want to disturb or damage the least. Normally however, sewer pipes are laid at a reasonable depth with the joins encased in concrete. Excavate along the pipe to see what direction it goes. If it heads towards a manhole it is probably a sewer pipe. How to fix broken clay pipe
If you do have a broken clay pipe which needs fixing typically you are faced with two scenarios. Either a small section of the pipe is damaged or a larger length of pipe needs replacing. For open cracks and single holes attaching a rubber, straight, extender, adapter should solve the issue. For much longer and continuous breaks you will need to replace the section of pipe with a bridging section. Clay pipes are normally around 100mm in diameter so a 100mm plastic ground pipe will have to be installed. This can be achieved by connecting the plastic pipe with rubber adapters at each end. For our full guide on how to fix a broken clay pipe see our full guide here. 
Can you encase garden drainage pipes in concrete?Yes you can, in fact it is best to encase garden drainage pipe joins within concrete. This is to provide extra protection against ground movement in coming decades. However make sure your pipe is submerged to a reasonable depth. If you run a drainage pipe near ground level within a concrete surface it could be broken during new resurfacing works. 
Concrete drainage pipes
Concrete drainage pipes are used in much larger landscape scale drainage operations. Their heavy weight and solid structure are far more resilient to ground movement. However these pipes are normally too large and uneconomical to warrant use as a garden drainage pipe. 
Cast iron drainage pipes
Cast iron pipes are normally used for soil pipes to match the historical architecture of a property or locality. These pipes are extremely robust and hardwearing but not the best choice for garden drainage. Any metal used submerged in damp conditions has the potential to rust and degrade over time. Although cast iron pipes can be utilised for drainage we do not recommend their use in garden drainage projects. 
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Below we have linked to some related, garden, drainage, topics for further reading! Thank you! Garden drainage services & drainage contractors in BuckinghamshireBuckinghamshire landscape gardeners are experts in garden drainage and provide a number of garden drainage solutions. Our garden drainage services include;
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Grasses are one of the most successful and widespread species of plants on the planet today.
They exist in every continent and are adapted to a wide range of temperatures and conditions. Known as a 'pioneering species' grasses are quick to spread and dominate large natural habitats. Even though grasses are very diverse in form and distribution they all have a similar growing habits. Their long, thin, leaves sprout from a central clump giving them a very centralised form. This allows many grasses the potential to be celebrated for their simplistic and architectural form. 
Miscanthus Zebrinus
Large grass species such as Stipa are perfect for creating a statement and movement, whereas other smaller grasses with coloured foliage are fantastic for groundcover.
Typically there is also a grass for every garden style, for example Miscanthus is great for tropical gardens. If you are creating a Japanese garden the Japanese forest grass is perhaps a better choice. With there being so many different cultivars of ornamental grasses there are so many to choose from! In this article we have listed and described the top 25 garden grasses to make your garden look amazing this season! 1. Giant Miscanthus (Miscanthus x giganteus)This deep green grass can grow up to 10-feet and has very wide leaves. Its size makes it suitable for use as a screen or physical barrier. When mature, it holds onto the ground quite well so, to save yourself the hustle of digging it up you are advised to allocate enough space from the onset. The grass is drought resistant so you don’t have to worry about irrigation. If you want an effective pot plant, the Giant Miscanthus would be a wonderful choice. 
2. Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra)
The Hakonechloa is native to south Honshu in Japan. It is grouped in the genus family Poaceae and is considered one of the best forest grasses from Japan. It bears distinctive brightly coloured leaves and some plant enthusiasts consider it an ornamental grass species. Many like it because of its non-invasive nature and rather peculiar spreading behaviour. One aspect about it worth mentioning is that it is a pretty slow-growing plant. It thrives best in rich and soggy areas but upon maturity, a more drought tolerant nature prevails. 
3. Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana)
This is a perfect grass to add texture and colour to any garden. When well-natured it grows dense and with tall thin blades that can grow up to 2 metres. This is no ordinary grass; its tolerance for harsh environments is astonishing. It can grow in salty areas, drought-stricken fields and is tolerant of deer grazing. The grass needs around 10 feet of spacing to grow. Once mature the blades grow sharp and strong and can be invasive if not managed. 
4. Tufted Hair Grass (Deschampsia Cespitosa)This gold coloured grass is very useful when you need to stabilize a disturbed site or shoreline. It starts off as green before maturing into a dense gold-coloured plant with hair like flowers that can rise up to 3 feet tall. This winter grass can be inter-grown with ferns to add to its colourful appearance. If you love gardening, this is an ornamental grass with a delicate form which looks great. 
5. Reed canary grass (Phalaris arundinacea)
This fast-growing and very aggressive grass originated from North America and some parts of Asia and Europe. There are reports that it is a crossbreed due to its abnormally fast growth.
It is common in wetlands and other dry but highly shaded areas. It spreads through rhizomes and runners. Upon establishment the Reed Canary grass can literally eliminate all other vegetation making it an effective ground cover. 
6. Blood grass (Imperata cylindrica)This clumping grass can grow up to 60 cm when mature. It is a perennial plant that bears green and slightly tinged red tips when young before maturing into a blood-red colour. This grass can look very effective in a border or contrasted next to light coloured gravel. It is quite a novelty in the garden and especially effective for Japanese gardens. However be war, it can spread if unchecked. 
7. Mexican Feather Grass (Nassella Tenuissima)This rather fine-textured grass is known to retain its original colour all year round although the heat sometimes burns its leaves. It thrives during cooler seasons, its leaves are not very rigid and sway in the slightest breeze. Its seeds appear around May and might self sow if not managed. You are advised to grow it in controlled areas with dry soil and unlimited access to sunlight. 
8. Purple Fountain Grass (Pennisetum Setaceum Rubrum)
This must be the most popular ornamental grass ever documented. Whether grown on its own or grouped, the Purple Fountain grass always stands out. Maintaining this grass is easy once it matures. This grass cannot withstand winter and is considered a tender perennial grass. It only thrives in USDA Plant Hardiness zones 9 and warmer. It might survive zones 7 and 8 but winter protection is necessary. This is a factor worth considering before planting. 
9. Chinese Fountain Grass (Pennisetum Alopecuroides)The Chinese Fountain Grass needs unlimited sunlight to flourish. When spacing, allow around 3-4 inches distance. The fountain grass works well as specimen grass and in flower borders. It looks more refined and delicate when compared to other grasses in its class. This grass thrives in wet but well-drained soil and is relatively resistant to pests. Despite needing adequate sunlight, you might sometimes come across fountain grass in light, deprived areas but this occurrence is rare. 
10. Blue Fescue (Festuca Glauca ‘Elijah Blue’)As the name suggests this grass bears blue and wiry blades. Aside from its ability to retain colour all year round, its tolerance for multiple conditions is remarkable. If you rarely visit your garden in boots and a coat, this is the grass for you. Once established it requires hardly any maintenance and is an effective ground colour. To maintain the evergreen look, they tend to lose the old and brown leaves for new ones in spring. If the shedding delays, you can always pluck them off with your fingers. 
11. Reed grass (Calamagrostis)The Reed grass is an easy to maintain grass that adds more than texture but life to your garden. Its application in architectural works has created marvellous results. This ornamental grass can easily thrive with minimal maintenance. This ornamental grass has numerous cultivars and is a deciduous plant. It grows up to 1.5 m with its fresh foliage emerging in early spring. Reed grass will spread regardless of damp or dry ground conditions or the availability of excess sunshine. 
12. Giant Feather Grass (Stipa Gigantea)If you noticed the giant feather grass to have wheat like flowers you are not wrong. In fact this grass is closely related to the wheat family with the flowers appearing around June. This grass is suitable for use as a specimen, ornamental grass. They originally thrived in temperate regions before spreading across the rest of the world. You can use this grass to fill your wild garden or control erosion. Some of the problems to watch out for include eye spots and brown patches. 
13. Chinese Silver Grass (Miscanthus Sinensis)As the name suggests, this grass originated from Asia. It is a common ornamental grass and is categorized in the Poaceae family. Some states find its multiple cultivars invasive. You are most likely to come across it along deserted roads and relatively disturbed areas. It will thrive in any type of soil and most environments with adequate sunlight. You can expect this grass to grow up to 12 feet. With its dissemination of seeds, it can self sow prolifically it not controlled. 
14. Black Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon Planiscapus)This is an ornamental grass classified as a part of the asparagus family. It grows up to 12 inches tall and is a slow spreader that offers a pretty dense ground cover. It grows well in well-drained and slightly acidic soils with partial access to sunlight. This grass prefers to be planted in a relatively moist soil and is not drought tolerant. You can plant it as a semi marginal or capitalise on its ability to form a dense ground cover. 
15. Sedge Grass (Carex)Sedge grass is in the genus carex. It blends quite well with the environment probably due to its evergreen leaves. Most carex members serve well as linings for pathways. They thrive well when grown in moist grounds and can be a suitable companion plant for hostas. All carex plants are tolerant of neglect but with regular care and watering in dry summers will thrive! This plants striking variegated leaves make it a real statement in the front of garden borders. 
16. Giant Reed (Arundo Donax)Others call it arundo and others giant cane but all in all this Asian grass is among the most sought-after erosion control grasses there are. Among the most common areas to spot a giant reed are wetlands and riparian grounds. The grass is highly visible in areas of North America and The Mediterranean. This tall grass has very strong tubers that are used in the manufacture of flutes and organ pipes. Its leaves are also quite useful in the mat weaving industry. The variegated varieties look really effective in Mediterranean and tropical gardens. 
17. Bowles golden grass ('Milium effusum')You might not love the color Bowles adds to your garden but the energy this grass brings will surely impress! It bears a chartreuse shade that brightens every garden that hosts it. If you don’t want them scattered around the garden you can concentrate them in the shady, dull areas. Don’t allow for your dislike of the chartreuse colour deny your garden the brightness that comes with the bowel’s golden grass. Its discovery and documentation are credited to Edward Augustus Bowles. 
18. Pheasants Tail Grass (Stipa Arundinacea)The pheasant’s tail grass needs access to adequate sunlight to thrive. It grows well in relatively fertile and well-drained soil. It is the fastest growing grass of its type with the flowers blooming around September time. If you want to plant the Pheasants grass, be ready to offer winter protection because it can be tender during harsh winters. In spring you can once in a while run your fingers through the grass to remove the dead foliage. 
19. Purple Moor Grass (Molinia Caerulea)The purple moor grass is native to Eurasia and thrives best in moist and fertile soils. Its ornamental characteristics are very aesthetic and can provide a gentle movement to borders. This grass variety needs a mild level of acidity in the soil to grow well. The flowers grow tall and distinctively, you are advised to grow them in large numbers for optimum effect. As a control measure, you can remove the seed heads during autumn as they can self seed. 
20. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)This warm-season grass has its roots in North Carolina. It is among the most dominant species of the tall grass prairie ranges. This tubular and erect grass is extremely effective bordering pathways and patios. In nature you are likely to come across this grass growing along wet paths and woodlands. This means it can take some shade and damper soil conditions. Its height ranges between 3-4 feet with the flower plumes going up to 7 feet. It spreads by rhizomes to form a dense ground cover that is green all year round. 
21. Pony Tail Grass (Stipa Tenuissima)Many people know this grass because of its golden pinnacles. Some books might call it ponytails but stipa tenuissima is its botanical name. It is easy to maintain and its ornamental features make it easy to plant in pots. You are best advised to plant it in well-drained soils. It can withstand temperatures as low as -10 degrees, so you don’t have to worry about winter protection. 
22. Red hook sedge (Ucinia rubra)This rather unique breed of grass comes with shiny red-bronze foliage. The grass bears ornamental characteristics and grows best in damp areas with partial or full sunlight. It is a heavy consumer of minerals so the soil must be rich. In the wild you are most likely to find it in areas around water bodies. It also does well in containers and will brighten any dull looking corner or flower bed. However if it is to be grown in containers it will perish if not watered regularly. 23. Japanese sweet flag (Acorus gramineus)This little Japanese aquatic grass can reach almost 30 cm in height. It might not be the brightest grass in your garden but it sure adds some life to dull swampy areas. It grows naturally around pond edges and wetland habitats so perfect for a boggy garden. It is slow-growing but can achieve a width of up to 0.5m. Experts use it for soil stabilization in damp areas where erosion can be an issue. 
24. Corkscrew rush (Juncus Effusus spiralis)This grass is a clear embodiment of versatility. It thrives in soggy grounds and drained soils too. It can serve well as a container plant or a novelty specimen. This plant adds a smile to the face of everyone who sees it, the unruly springing of foliage is quite a sight. When grown in block plantings the texture of its foliage can look almost spring like! This peculiar grass will always attract some attention from guests who have never seen one before! 
25. African love grass (Eragrostis curvula)This densely green grass of African descent is very useful in soil erosion control. It is now also very common in Australia which gives homage to its adaptability to different climates. This drought tolerant grass does not tend to spread too much and has an attractive, delecate foliage. At the initial stages of flowering, the seed head is usually compact before blooming outwards. These seed heads are quite attractive and can grow up to 30 cm long. The leaves are narrow but long reaching and can grow to a length of 35cm. 
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English cottages enclosed with rustic stone walls and bursting with colour are a thing of wonder. Such beautiful scenes are a nostalgic glimpse of a rural way of life which endured for centuries.
Cottage gardens do not only appeal to our visual senses but emotional senses too. In a world of mass production and geometry cottage gardens give us something rugged and traditional. It no surprise that English, Cottage, gardens are world renowned and recreated all over the globe. However cottage garden plants are also loved in exactly the same manner. 
Like other cottage elements there is an emphasis on resourcefulness and the contextual. Buildings and landscapes evolved with what you had to hand instead of what you could mass produce. Similarly cottage garden plants would often have some form of utility.
Borders were planted with masses of perennial flowers and allowed to grow in an unrestrained manner. In cottage communities of the past spare time came at a premium! Gardeners placed an emphasis on plants which did not have to be planted every year. Hence there was always an appreciation of flowering shrubs and perennials within cottage borders. A need to produce local commodities for the kitchen led an abundance of cut flowers, herbs, fruits and vegetables. In this article I will list some of the best plants for cottage gardens money can buy. Trees
Historically cottage gardens rarely had large and expanse areas of garden space. However when there was room it was very popular to grow fruit trees. These could provide extra delicacies in the kitchen as well as making jams and preserves.
Apple
Apples are heavy producers and very reliable croppers. The great thing about apples is you do not need huge trees to harvest a large crop. These were staple trees for cottage gardens and can be pruned in multiple shapes.
Pears
Pears were also a very popular fruit grown in the cottage garden. Originally from southeast Europe they are less easy to grow but do well against a sunny wall. These can also be trained against trellis and along wires.
Plums
Plums are an extremely productive fruit tree when established and can be eaten fresh, dried, or made into jams, chutneys or wine! These small trees are also easy to prune into any shape or form. These are great for small cottage gardens and have excellent spring blossom.
Cherry
Cherries are one of nature’s little delicacies and were very popular in historical cottage gardens. Cherry trees have amazing blossom in spring and can be made into fantastic deep red jams and pies. These trees are also very manageable for small sites typically staying around 4 metres tall.
Quince
Quinces are a fantastic fruit and great for making fresh summer drinks and deserts. During spring they have large, five lobed, white and yellow flowers. Originally from Asia these trees do like sunny warm conditions so a sheltered spot is always best.
Medlar
Medlars are small, beautiful trees that were once more common in cottage gardens across Britain. Due to their small, ping pong, sized, fruits they were not favoured for commercial production. It has attractive blossom, great autumn colour and makes a tastey jelly that can be enjoyed with meats.
Mulberry
Mulberries are another historical tree which fell out of favour during the past 150 years. Its small fruits are not easy to harvest commercially but are a joy and store easily. The berries of this tree can be made into wine and the leaves can also be used in cooking.
Figs
Figs are thought more of a Mediterranean fruit tree but did become popular in Victorian times. These tropical looking trees became popular for growing against sunny walls in Britain and cottage gardens were no exception.
Shrubs
Cottage gardens are famous for their wide borders full of dazzling colours and flowers. However these beds were typically backed by a range of interesting shrubs. Cottage gardens would use shrubs for seasonal blooms, scent and striking autumn colour. We have listed some of the typical cottage garden shrubs below.
Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are famous for their circular clumping foliage and huge flowers. These wonderful flowering shrubs can provide lasting summer displays and are very hardy. These are perfect as a backdrop to flower borders or in a more prominent position.
Roses
What cottage garden would be without roses? Roses can provide a continuous flow of blooms throughout the growing season and come in many varieties. Climbing varieties are perfect for arches or external walls.
Elder
Elderberry is a robust and medium sized woodland shrub native to Europe. Traditionally elders were favoured in cottage gardens for their many uses. Elderflowers were used to flavour drinks and really capture the taste of early summer. Their berries are also delicious and perfect for jams.
Fuchsia
This small shrub is favoured for its arching stems and striking bright, bell like flowers. Originally from South America these beautiful shrubs seem to be able to work well within any garden scheme.
Witch-hazel
Witch-hazels are a very famous shrub in folklore and have fantastic, autumn colour. The best thing about this shrub is its unusual flowers and scent in late winter. It has the ability to fill a whole area with its deep and extraordinary scent.
Daphne
Daphne’s are beautiful little shrubs with small blooms and perfect for the front of cottage garden borders. The best part about Daphnes is they are winter flowering giving off a pleasant aroma.
Lavatera
Often known as the ‘tree Mallow’ Lavatera have mallow like blooms and hibiscus like petals. These small shrubs are perfect for flower borders providing continuous flowers during the summer months.
Choisya
Choisya is a very popular shrub both in private gardens and in public landscapes. This attractive, evergreen shrub has decorative foliage and delicate white flowers. Its fine textured foliage makes it a great backdrop for other plants within the flower border.
Philadelphus
Also known as 'Mock orange' this glorious shrub is famous for its striking white flowers and amazing scent. The summer flowering shrub can make whole areas smell of its sweet, orange aroma. Philadelphus is a great allrounder and can be easily pruned into any form.
Buddleja
Buddleja is a medium sized flowering shrub native to central Asia. Sometimes called butterfly bush it is extremely popular with butterflies and other insects. It is so resilient it has been seen growing out of roofs in the centre of cities. The shrub can add some height, interest and wildlife value to the cottage garden border.
Camellia
Camellias are famous for their shiny, dark foliage and radiant rose like flowers. They can be temperamental and do like acidic soil. However if you can grow them they make a welcome addition to the cottage garden.
Viburnum
Viburnams are a broad range of different shrubs but are all beautiful and suitable for cottage gardens. Viburnum tinus is a very attractive evergreen viburnum and botnantense has fantastically scented winter flowers.
Currents
Currents are small fruit bushes and were very typical of cottage gardens in historical times. Not only are these bushes productive they also have attractive blooms and attract wildlife. The most common are red and black currents.
Strawberry tree
This evergreen shrub is a bit of a novelty wherever it is planted. It has bright red, strawberry looking fruits which taste amazing! These shrubs do need acidic soil but can be grown in pots of ericaceous compost.
Ceanothsis
Ceanothis is an evergreen shrub with fantastic, radiant blue flowers. It can thrive in a range of conditions but prefers a sheltered and sunny site. With careful pruning it can pretty much be shaped into any form, even a low lying hedge.
Bay
Most of us are familiar with bay leaves as they are extensively used in cooking. However Bays are also very decorate shrubs with shiny evergreen foliage and small white flowers. They can make great topiary pieces and small hedges. Perfect for cottage garden displays!
Perennials
Perennials are perfect for Cottage garden borders, grown on mass these plants can create a meadow effect. Traditionally cottage gardens were full of flowering perennials which come up every year. This was ideal for busy rural workers as there was no need to replant every season.
Verbena Bonariensis
This tall, flowering, perennial has deep, purple, globe like, flowers which sway in the breeze. These are perfect for creating movement in the cottage border or around a focal point. Once planted Verbena will come up every year and are surprisingly robust once established.
Hellebores
Hellebores are a low growing perennial which can put up with shady conditions. Originating from woodland environments these plants have strikingly beautiful blooms in the heart of winter. Once established, Hellebores can be a pleasant sight in the depths of miserable winters.
Golden rod
Golden rod is a one metre tall perennial with sprays of yellow blooms in midsummer. This plant is technically a wildflower being native to Europe. It can be found on waste ground and can also attract beneficial insects.
Aster
Aster is a very common favourite amongst many gardeners and looks amazing in the cottage garden. This perennial is famous for its robust nature and attractive blue, daisy like flowers. This plant can easily be lifted and divided every year for new stock.
Lupines
Lupines are truly striking, flowering plants which have clusters of decorative flowers in early summer. The plants are closely related to the bean family and consequently have similar flowers. These flowers can grow to around one metre and provide a great addition to cottage garden borders.
Holyhocks
Holyhocks are a classical favourite of the English cottage garden and come in a variety of colours. Originally bred from the mallow these plants are hardy and robust. These perennials can grow to impressive heights with spears of large flowers.
Echinacea
Also known as the Coneflower Echinacea is a member of the daisy flower and native to North America. This plant is generally well known for its medicinal value but packs a punch visually. With a traditional daisy look but with a large size and enchanting blue or purple colour it’s a must!
Delphinium
Delphiniums are tall perennial plants with impressive flower spikes. These are perfect for cottage gardens with their attractive large and frilly flowers. These have a similar look to hollyhocks and also come in a wide variety of colours.
Hostas
Hosta's are a classic perennial and loved by all sorts of gardeners all across the world. Their large, attractive leaves make them a decorative choice for that shady corner. These are perfect for cottage borders shaded by the home. However that is if the slugs do not get to them first!
Ferns
If you have a shady cottage garden then you may wish to consider some fern varieties. Perennials like ostrich fern can be perfect for under tree canopies and can even provide an edible crop. Ferns are also great for shady, wet walls and woodland areas.
Iris
Iris is an attractive perennial plant which comes in numerous types and varieties. These have sword like foliage and large attractive frilly flowers. These plants grow and spread from robust rhizomes under the soil. Their robust growing habit makes them a great low maintenance plant for cottage gardens.
Campanula
Also known as Bellflowers Campanula is a low growing plant with attractive bell shaped flowers. It is perfect for growing over the walls of raised beds and at the front of borders. Due to its dense growing nature it is ideal as a ground cover plant.
Daylilies
Daylilies are delightful perennial plants with radiant star shaped flowers. The blooms only lasts 1 day hence the name daylily. These plants have been grown in Europe for centuries and were also popular in cottage gardens.
Peonies
The one thing which always makes cottage gardens memorable is their fantastic array of flowers. When it comes to impressive blooms Peonies top the lot. These plants come up every spring and explode in colour around June time. Their exaggerated rose looking blooms are unforgettable.
Crocosmia
Crocosmia are a clump forming, summer flowering, perennial bulb, plant with exotic looking flowers. These plants have become incredible popular for their amazing aesthetics while requiring very little work. Corcosmia once established can create a dense ground cover crowding out even aggressive weeds.
Cranesbill
Cranesbill is a hardy variety of geranium with decorate foliage and beautiful flowers. These can tolerate a wide range of conditions and form an effective ground cover. The great thing about these little plants is they flower all summer long.
Alchemilla mollis
Alchemilla or 'Ladys Mantle' is a herbaceous perennial with aluminous, green, foliage and a spreading form. Very popular in dry garden schemes this plant is originally from the mountainous regions of the Balkans. It offers attractive foliage and flowers to borders and requires very little maintenance.
Phlox
Phlox is a species of flowering plant with over 60 distinct varieties worldwide. Originally from North America these plants are accustomed to a temperate climate. These plants are famous for their masses of scented flowers which look great in the cottage flower border.
Biennials
Biennials are plants which will typically last two seasons. Generally speaking these plants will be seeded one year and then flower in their second season before dying off. These plants generally self seed prolifically, due to the nature of their life cycles. Historically biennial plants were very typical in cottage garden flower borders.
Digitalis
Commonly known as 'Foxglove' Digitalis is a much loved woodland biennial plant. Well known for its medicinal qualities this plant has tall stems of bell shaped flowers. The plant is very shade tolerant and popular with bees.
Dianthus
Also known as 'Carnations' these small flowering plants are perfect for setting off garden borders. Generally these flowers are low growing with vibrant flowers. There are so many hybrids of these plants which provide a wide spectrum of variability.
Wallflower
Wallflowers are extremely attractive plants which will flower in early spring. These are actually apart of the cabbage family and have similar flowers. However wall flowers are much more colourful and delicate providing early season blooms.
Common evening primrose
Cottage gardens are famous for planting useful and medicinal plants. What could be more relevant in this regard than evening primrose? However this is not all it has going for it as it has very attractive yellow flowers. This plant is also very popular with bees and butterflies.
Teasel
Teasel is famous for its striking form and unusual flowers which are popular in flower arranging. This plant can add dramatic shapes to the cottage garden border and provides food for wildlife.
Aquileia
Aquileia is a small flowering plant which is very common and recognised due to its self seeding nature. It is very common for these, once planted, to thrive in a garden for many years. They have unusually patterned foliage and small colourful flowers.
Nicotiana
Famous for being a part of the tobacco plant family this species is famous for its amazing scent. Nicotiana has now been bred into many variations and has interesting, tube like flowers. These flowers are really effective for adding colour and fragrance to the cottage garden.
Herbs
As cottage gardens were traditionally places to grow produce for the kitchen they had their far share of herbs. Herbs have not only been grown in cottage gardens for food but also teas and medicines. Below we have listed some of the more typical garden herbs which are very popular in cottage gardens.
Mint
Mint is a historical favourite of the gardens throughout the world. Not only does this plant have many uses it also comes in a variety of different types. From spearmint to peppermint this herb is perfect for teas and even pest control.
Lemon balm
Lemon balm is very well known for its strong lemon fragrance. However it is often not utilised as much as it could be. When dried this herb makes a delicious bed time tea which is extremely sleep inducing. Not only does this perennial smell great it also looks very attractive.
Thyme
What herb garden would be without a classic favourite such as thyme? Thyme is extremely rich in essential oils which make it smell and taste great. Thyme can be used to season meats and also makes a great ground cover in the garden.
Pennyroyal
Pennyroyal is a less well known member of the Mint family but historically a very useful herb. The Romans referred to this plant as the mosquito plant as it was used to repel flying insects. Pennyroyal has an extremely strong peppermint aroma which can ward off garden pests.
Oregano
Oregano is a perennial herb normally associated with Mediterranean cooking and popular on pizza. There are many different varieties of oregano all with very different aromas. Some Eastern Mediterranean varieties even taste spicy like chilly.
Parsley
Parsley is a favoured herb and one which regularly features in kitchen recipes. With very long tap roots parsley penetrates deep into the soil drawing up essential nutrients. This has led to it gaining a reputation for being extremely beneficial to health.
Rosemary
Rosemary is a small and attractive evergreen shrub as well as being a favourite herb. This also makes it an effective landscaping plant. Rosemary can actually be planted as a low hedge which provides fresh herbs when trimmed. This plant was very common in cottage gardens of the past and is a must have today!
Annuals
Annuals are plants which only grow for a single year and generally germinate in the spring. These plants are naturally prolific at sowing themselves and once established will persist for years. This makes traditional cottage garden annuals relatively maintenance free. They are also very attractive plants providing radiant blooms throughout the season.
Poppies
Poppies are an extremely beautiful flowering plant which is common in agricultural landscapes. The famous, red, 'Corn Poppy' actually needs ground disturbance to germinate. This is why they easily colonise corn fields and ploughed land. There are many varieties of poppy which all look great in cottage gardens.
Forget me not
Forget me not’s are small, low growing annuals which have a very attractive, small, flower. These are typical of so many gardens and can appear without even being planted. These plants like moist but well drained soil and are generally not very fussy.
Nasturtium
Nasturtiums are famous for their large bell like flowers and irregular shaped leaves. These small annuals have the ability to flower pretty much all season and are not fussy. Nasturtiums come in a wide variety of colours and their foliage and flowers are edible.
Cornflower
Also known as Bachelors button Cornflowers are small, annual plants with a deep blue flower. This wildflower is typical of meadows but is also at home in the flower border. Cornflowers are a true country plant and perfect for cottage garden planting displays.
Sunflowers
Sunflowers are stunning plants which can grow to an amazing height in a single season. Some giant varieties can grow over 10 foot tall! Their height and large flowers make them very a stunning addition to cottage gardens.
Snapdragons
Snap dragons are a favourite flower of the cottage garden and popular with bees and children! These colourful flowering plants are easy to grow and look amazing at the front of a cottage garden border.
Climbers
Cottage gardens often seek to add vertical foliage to garden walls and pergolas. It is very common to see old cottages with ornamental roses and grapevines growing on a sunny wall. This adds to the simplistic and rustic charm of cottage gardens. Below I have listed some of the best and most typical cottage garden climbers.
Honeysuckle
Honeysuckle is a well known woodland plant native to Europe; however it has now spread around the world. This popular climber is favoured for its attractive flowers which emit a pleasant scent. Honeysuckles are quite tolerant of difficult growing conditions and can thrive in semi shade.
Wisteria
Wisteria is very well known for its hanging clusters of pale purple flowers. Native to china this robust vine has become popular in many gardens around the world. This vine looks particularly charming grown up the side of cottages and cascading over door entrances.
Grapevine
Grapevines have always been popular, cottage garden, plants and grown along sunny walls and boundaries. Grapevines were regularly planted for their use in village wine making. As the leaves of vines are also edible they were very useful for subsidising the kitchen.
Boston ivy
Boston ivy is a remarkable climber with jagged 5 lobed leaves with exceptional autumn colour. This climber is famous for tuning whole buildings bright red during the fall! Boston ivy has become a very popular cover plant in rural settings and around old country cottages.
Climbing hydrangea
Climbing hydrangeas are more trailing shrubs than climbers but no less effective in the cottage garden. These shrubs will create a bushier coverage than other climbers and perfect for around windows and doors. During the summer they are covered with attractive, white, flowers.
Climbing rose
If there is one typical climber of the cottage garden it is the climbing rose. More historical cottages would grow more wild rambling roses such as Rosa Carnea and Rosa Rugosa. These are still available today and good for the harvest of rose hips and wildlife. However more modern climbing roses with classic red, yellow and white flowers are also perfect for cottage gardens.
Jasmine
Cottage gardens are particularly famous for their use of scented plants. Many climbers with scented flowers were grown over arches and pergolas to surround you with sent. One of the best climbers for emitting such fragrance is the star jasmine. This summer flowering jasmine emits a classic, sweet, jasmine fragrance.
Clematis
Clematis is a favourite climber within cottage gardens and favoured for their fabulous flowers. With delicate foliage these climbers are less aggressive and perfect for patio trellises and arches. Their hypnotic flowers make them irresistible to include in your very own cottage garden.
Thank you for reading our article on cottage garden plants, Why not also read our article on how to create a cottage garden here. If you are planning on creating your cottage garden yourself why not visit our landscaping resources page here.
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Before the days of commercial agriculture, wildflower meadows were a common sight across the rural landscape.
Wild grasslands were allowed to flourish to provide livestock fodder and bedding for the winter months. Unfortunately today, livestock are fed with feeds typically produced from large soya bean plantations. It is such high protein crops which have led to the clearance of rainforests and other important habitats. Therefore wildflower meadows are more than just a trendy landscape feature. Meadows are symbolic of age old agricultural traditions of sustainable food production. 
Traditionally wildflower meadows have been ecologically complex swards of native plant communities with a high biodiversity value.
These grasslands created important habitats for many species of small mammals, birds and insects. Therefore with an ever increasing awareness of ecological sustainability there is a growing interest in meadow habitats. Meadows can be incorporated into gardens and urban areas easily and have many benefits! Meadows can; reduce mowing, provide animal bedding, sequester carbon, prevent flooding and boost local wildlife. Here we provide a step by step guide on how to make a wildflower meadow from existing lawn using either seed or plugs. Site selection
When choosing a lawn to convert into meadow try to plan in practical terms. Which part of the existing lawn is still useful for other activities? Do you still want a central, mowed area for multifunctional activities and play? Have a think about what parts of the lawn are most suited for a wild meadow. Perhaps your children have grown up and you no longer need an expansive green space. In this case, you can simply have mown pathways that provide easy access through the meadow. Bear in mind that meadows have traditionally grown on open, sunny sites. Therefore it is best to convert sunnier areas of the garden to wildflower meadow. 
Species selection
It is important to remember however that there are many different types of wildflower meadow. Some grasses and wildflowers are naturalised to varying environments. Some species are endemic to woodland glades and forested edge habitats. This makes these species more suited to shadier gardens. Some species are adapted to wetland areas or seasonally flooded wildflower meadows. These can be successfully established in boggy areas or gardens which flood easily. 
Today, many wild seed suppliers have specific mixes for every regional habitat. These can cover a range of soil types and conditions.
Most suppliers have general meadow mixes which contain many species of wildflowers. The idea here is that the species most suited to your site will out compete the less suited. Ground preparation
Wildflower meadows prefer soil with a low fertility. Therefore if you are converting a lawn to meadow it is best to remove grass clippings. If you already do this then there is a good chance your lawn is already nutrient poor. Most lawns are easy to convert into meadows as they already have existing wildflowers and low nutrient levels. Using a strimmer, cut the grass right down to the soil all over and rake off any loose material. You want the lawn to be scalped to the base to give wild flowers a sporting chance. This is best done in the autumn or the springtime. 
Lawns generally have been compacted over many years which can make it challenging for wildflower roots to establish.
Therefore it is good to break up areas and work them to a loose texture. Remove a few small sections of turf every square metre. These bald patches will enable you to start off wildflowers before surrounding grasses take over. Work your new mini planting areas to loose soil so your wildflowers can establish. Wildflower plugs or seeds which is best?
There are two main ways of making a meadow from an existing lawn, seeding and plugs. Seeding is simply applying a wild meadow seed mix to the soil. Plugs are clusters of wildflowers in small plug pots which have to be individually planted. There are advantages for using both, plugs are very reliable but much more expensive. Seeding is dramatically cheaper per square metre and much faster to apply. With plugs you have to individually plant every plant but the major hurdle of germination is already overcome. The main advantage of plugs is you already have small plants. Sometimes with seed you are not sure if seedlings are wildflowers or other weeds. There is also the threat of birds disturbing the surface looking for seed. However I would advise to a little bit of both, plant plugs at a lower density and seed the rest. 
How to create a wildflower meadow with plugsStep 1
Prepare the lawn by strimming grass down to the soil level and raking off the clippings.
Step 2
Scalp off sections off lawn with roots around 100mm x 100mm per plug plant. Make sure you work each planting cube to a loose and friable soil.
Step 3
Loosen the soil in each scalped section of the lawn to a minimum depth of 30mm
Step 4
Add a handful of loose topsoil to the prepared section of lawn. It is best to use nutrient poor soil or topsoil mixed with sand.
Step 5
Plant the plugs directly into the small planting pits you really want at least 4 per square metre. Many plugs have a few seedlings per plug, if you are careful you can divide these into extra plantings.
Step 6
Water your seedlings well into position, if you encounter long dry spells make sure they are watered well.
Step 7
Keep an eye on your plants, try to keep soil around the plugs clear for the first 6 months.
How to create a wildflower meadow with seed
Step 1
Prepare the lawn by strimming grass down to the soil level and raking off the clippings.
Step 2
Scalp off sections off lawn with roots around 150mm x 150mm at a frequency of 6 per square metre.
Step 3
Loosen the soil in each scalped section of the lawn to a minimum depth of 30mm
Step 4
Mix up some sharp sand and topsoil and apply a 10mm layer to the prepared patches.
Step 5
Wait for a warm and dry, spring or autumn day with some substantial rain forecasted. Rake the seeding areas to an even and level surface.
Step 6
Spread your seed as evenly as possible over the surface at the recommended density. Sprinkle course sand over the surface to help anchor the seeds to the soil.
Step 7
With a fine spray or sprinkler water the new meadow so the soil settles. Keep an eye on your germinating seeds to keep track of progress.
During the coming growing season your new meadow should be an explosion of colour and wildlife!
Thank you for reading our article on how to create a wildflower meadow from lawn. If you found it useful why not comment and share! We would love to see pictures of meadows you have created from this article! You can send them via our contact page here!
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Bricks have been one of the most popular building materials throughout history. These decorative, masonry blocks are easy to handle and look great in a variety of different projects.
Being made from natural materials means their colours do not fade over time. Natural impurities and rock particles within the fired clay gives them varying tones and colour shades. Their functional aesthetics are no less appreciated within the garden! 
Here they can be utilised for retaining walls, paving or border edging. One of the most popular uses for bricks is to make garden edging!
This is especially so for lawn edging where they can form the perfect mowing edge strip. Such brick edgings level with the lawn create a seamless mowing experience where there is no need to either strim or trim the lawns edges. If a lawn is laid to a perfectly, level, brick perimeter, you will consequently have a perfectly level lawn! Therefore in this article I will explain how to make garden edging with bricks including brick mow strip edging. How to install garden edging bricks.Step 1
Plan where you would like your brick edging to be laid and if you want to lay them long ways or sideways. If you prefer sideways (215mm) bear in mind you will need twice as many bricks which will cost more. A wider brick edging will also require more excavation, hardcore and mortar to lay.
Step 2
Excavate a channel 150mm deep for the whole length of your proposed brick edging. Dig your base trench about 20mm wider than you need to so you have some play when laying. Make sure your foundation has square sides with no loose soil at the base.
Step 3
Fill the bottom of your edging foundation with 60mm of compactable sub base. (mot type 1) Spread the sub-base to as even a level as possible and compact with a sledge hammer or tamper.
Step 4
Lay a 1 metre long bed of the mortar over the sub base and ripple the surface to provide some workable play.
Try to make the laying bed a consistent thickness as possible. This will make it easy for the bricks to be tapped level. Gently tap the bricks down evenly one at a time levelling with a spirit level as you go. If you wish to joint between the bricks, this can be done afterwards using patio, jointing mix. Keep going until all the bricks are laid how you want them and leave for 24 hours to set. 
Step 5
When the bricks are set wait for a dry period when the bricks and gaps are dry. Mix a jointing mix 1 part cement and 3 parts plastering sand.
Mix up the mix dry until it reaches a uniform colour and powdery consistency. Using water with some plasticiser ‘very gently’ add water to the mix. You do not want this mix to be too wet and stain the bricks! The mix should be just damp enough to form a ball under pressure in your hand, that’s it! If the mix seeps moisture it will stain the bricks! 
Step 6
When the jointing has gone off in 24 hours you can fill in any gaps around the edging with topsoil. If the edgings are bordering a lawn the gaps can be dressed with grass seed.
Thank you for reading our article on how to make garden edging with bricks. If you are wondering how much brick garden edging is to install read our pricing article here.
We discuss how much garden brick mow strip edging costs to both by and install. If you are planning on laying the edging yourself, visit our recommended tools for paving article below.
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Do you want to naturalize your landscape in a wonderful way? Flowering plants that carpet your landscape have immense beauty from an aesthetic point of view.
Some varieties provide a sweet smell and lovely fragrance, while others change colour all year long. If you’re looking for the best garden ground cover plants, we’ve got you covered. Here are 25 ground cover plants perfect for your garden borders. 1. Elephant Ears (Bergenia cordifolia)Virtually disease-free, the Elephant Ears is an evergreen perennial. It boasts of rosy-red flowers atop thick stems. These flowers rise above leathery and wavy-shaped leaves. Deep green in summer and spring, the leaves turn bronze in winter and fall. Easy to grow, this clump-forming perennial forms attractive foliage used in floral arrangements. The Elephant Ears can grow up to 10 to 15 inches tall and 10 to 12 inches wide. As such, they make a wonderful garden ground cover plant. 
2. Periwinkle (Vinca minor)As one of the finest low-growing groundcovers, the Periwinkle features rich lavender flowers dotting the foliage in April and May. Commonly used as a spreading shrub, it forms a dense mat of glossy green leaves. The shrub is shade tolerant and rarely reaches 4 inches in height. Commonly used to block views, do not plant it near other plants as it may overtake and choke them out. 
3. Greater Periwinkle (Vinca major)The Greater periwinkle is a mat-forming evergreen perennial. Nearly identical to periwinkle, the perennial has lovely violet-blue flowers that bloom in spring and summer. As a versatile ground cover, it's often used in floral arrangements. Loved for its glossy, leathery green leaves, it forms a dense carpet of rich foliage. Excellent for suppressing weeds, it can add a finishing touch to hanging containers and baskets. It grows up to 6 to 18 inches tall and thrives in full sun and partial shade. 
4. Rock Spray (Cotoneaster Horizontalis)Dense and slow-growing, the Rock Spray is typically grown in rock gardens. In fact, it can be trained to fences, trellises, and rock walls. In late spring, it produces light pink flowers, which give way to attractive berries and fall foliage. The plant grows horizontally and reaches a height of 3 feet. It has dense and stiff branching giving the plant a bristly look. The stems shoot off the branches at an angle and feature small and round shiny leaves. 
5. Poor Man's Box (Lonicera nitida Baggesen's Gold)Valued for its attractive white flowers, the Poor man’s box is highly ornamental. Clothed in stunning, white, tubular, flowers, it remains green through winter and produces deep purple berries in summer. It has glossy, oval, compound, leaves that form dense evergreen foliage with a shapely form. As such, it lends a fine texture to your gardens landscaping. Not only that. It's a great choice for attracting hummingbirds and butterflies to your garden. 
6. Fortunes Spindle (Euonymus fortunei)Native to China, Japan, and North America, the Fortunes spindle is a short shrub that grows up to 1 meter in height. Used to form low hedges and upholster walls, the shrub has pretty green leaves with cream-colored edges. This hardy plant produces small, greenish-yellow flowers that give way to reddish fruits. It creates an attractive natural upholstery once it starts to climb your walls or fence. 
7. Coral Bells (Heuchera)Popular for their mounds of colourful foliage, the Coral bells produce tiny bell-shaped flowers that appear in spring. Native to America, they are versatile in your landscape and garden. Best for edging, you can also plant them in a woodland shade garden and a mixed perennial border. An added bonus of the coral bells is that they often attract hummingbirds that visit the delicate flowers. 
8. Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis)Ideal for xeriscaping, the creeping juniper is an aromatic and graceful shrub. Often used as accents in flower borders or foundation plants, the shrub features plume-like branches. The plant can grow up to two feet tall and spread as much as 6 to 8 feet wide. In spring and summer, the foliage has a blue-green cast while in winter, it has a plum-colored tint. This creeping plant needs no cutting back or pruning. However, if it spreads beyond boundaries, remove some of the plants. 
9. Flaky Juniper (Juniperus squamata blue carpet)Perfect for your rock garden or as a foundation plant, the Flaky juniper grows up to 6 to 12 inches tall and 4 to 5 feet wide. Native to Taiwan and China, this evergreen shrub has horizontal sprays of needle-like foliage. In summer, the foliage is silver-blue but in winter, it turns to grey-green. Low maintenance and fast-growing, it makes a handsome groundcover and creates a stunning look within your gardens landscape. 
10. Black Mondo Grass (ophiopogon planiscapus)The Black mondo grass is a dense, perennial, grass with a medium texture that blends into your garden. This attractive grass features dainty shell, pink, bell-shaped flowers with white overtones. In mid to late summer, they rise above the foliage and the leaves (that remain black all season). In early to mid-fall, the flowers give way to black berries. The Black Mondo grass is ideal for mass planting, rock gardens, container planting, general garden use, and border edging. 
11. Common Heather (Calluna vulgaris)Dense and compact, Common heather is a beautiful evergreen shrub that grows 0.6 m by 0.5 m. Native to the UK, the Common heather blankets the moorlands of Britain. When they bloom in late summer, they are an iconic sight. The shrub blooms mostly pink to light violet flowers that usually grow up to 50 cm. This cute plant deserves a spot in your garden. Not only does it inject vivid life into your garden and landscape. But it changes colour all year-round. 
12. Lavender (Lavandula)Native to the mountainous regions of the Mediterranean, Lavender is a grey-green shrub with a charming look. Aromatic and fragrant, the shrub can grow up to 20 to 100 cm. Growing Lavender in your garden is rewarding. The rich purple flowers not only smell good. But you can pick them for fresh or for dried bouquets. You can plant Lavenders along garden paths and walkways so that you can enjoy the aromatic scent. 
13. Lady's Mantle (alchemilla mollis)The Lady's mantle is an attractive perennial with soft grey-green foliage. Semi-round and with scalloped shaped leaves, the plant produces yellow-green blooms in late spring and summer. You can use the Lady's mantle as ground cover for edging especially when kept inside the house. Lady's mantle is commonly used in bouquets and wreaths, either dried or freshly cut. 
14. Montbretia (Crocosmia)Exotic looking and attractive, the Montbretia produces scarlet red, orange, and yellow flowers. Attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds, these vibrant blossoms give way to seedpods. This great perennial is ideal for a late-season garden as it provides vibrant colors as other perennials begin to fade. Besides the blooms, the narrow-bladed leaves also provide vertical accents to the perennial border. This perennial also looks spectacular next to the Agapanthus, Echinops, or Aconitum. 
15. Japanese Spurge (pachysandra terminalis)The Japanese spurge is an evergreen perennial that belongs to the boxwood family. This popular landscaping plant is commonly planted in people’s front yards under trees. As an effective ground cover, the plant spreads to form a dense mat. This spreading action is usually accomplished by growing runners. The shrubby plant can grow up to a foot in height with oval serrated leaves that measure 2 to 4 inches long. In early spring, the plant produces 1 to 2-inch white flower spikes. 
16. Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris)The Ostrich fern is a tough and hardy plant with tall, lacy, fronds. Grown best in shade with rich, moist soils, the plant is usually valued for its ornamental, upright habit of growth. The large, fragrant, ferny, compound leaves set it apart from other garden plants with less foliage. It can grow to be about 24 inches tall with a spread of 4 feet. Recommended for mass planting, groundcover, general garden use, and woodland gardens. 
17. Creeping Blue Blossom (Ceanothus thyrsiflorus var. Repens)Evergreen and low-growing, the Creeping blue blossom is popular for its abundant clusters of sky blue flowers. These flowers cover the shrub transforming it into an explosion of blue. Perfect for your garden and landscape, this spreading shrub has evergreen foliage. Its low and spreading habit makes the Creeping blue blossom a fantastic groundcover plant. 
18. Creeping Barberry (Mahonia repens)Excellent for xeriscaping, the Creeping barberry is a low-growing and evergreen shrub. In spring, it produces bright golden-yellow flowers that give way to clusters of dark blue-purple berries. The flowers are fragrant and attract pollinators such as butterflies. Ideal for woodland and rock gardens, the shrub has lustrous foliage composed of glossy, leathery, blue-green leaves. 
19. Sweet Box (Sarcococca hookeriana)Sweet box is a versatile shade-loving broadleaf shrub that looks good all year long. In spring, the shrub produces white tubular fragrant flowers that give way to shiny blackberries. Grown for its highly ornamental fruit, it has an attractive, dark green, foliage composed of glossy pointed leaves. This dense multi-stemmed shrub has a rounded form that blends into your gardens flower borders. 
20. St John's Wort (Hypericum calycinum)Native to Southwestern Asia and Southern Europe, the St John's wort is a small shrub. Semi-evergreen and exotic, it produces screaming bright yellow flowers that measure 3 inches wide. The rose-like flowers have 5 petals that surround a tuft of reddish anthers and bushy stamens. The plant has oval leaves that turn bronze then quickly turn medium green to blue-green. This contrasts with the yellow flowers. As a popular groundcover, it's perfect for the border front, rock gardens, or naturalized planting. 
21. Japanese Forest Grass (Hakonechloa macra)Attractive and eye-catching, the Japanese forest grass grows in a mound up to 1 to 2 ft tall and 30 to 60 cm wide. Easy to grow, it spreads by rhizomes and eventually forms a broad, attractive ground cover. Native to Japan, the plant has soft foliage that changes colour from solid green to bright gold. The Japanese forest grass is invaluable as it adds a multi-season colour and texture to your garden. To create eye-catching combinations, we recommend planting near the Pulmonaria or Heuchera. 
22. Sedum Spurium (Caucasian stonecrop)The Sedum spurium is an easy-to-grow perennial. It produces pink-crimson flowers that tower over the green leaves and trailing stems. The pinnate leaves densely cover the stems creating low and dense tufts. This evergreen plant retains its ornamental value all year thanks to its dense foliage. Perfect for planting in rock gardens, it grows well under south-facing walls and well-lit corners of the garden. 
23. Meadow Cranesbill (Geranium pratense)Native to Northern European, the Meadow cranesbill is a tall clump-forming plant with finely cut leaves that form a mass of foliage and blooms. It produces large, saucer-shaped blue-violet flowers that tower above the deeply lobed leaves. Easy to grow, the Meadow cranesbill is a great addition to cottage gardens, beds, borders, and woodland gardens. Pest and disease-free, it grows up to 2 to 3 feet tall and spreads 24 to 30 inches wide. 
24. Persian Ivy (Hedera colchica)Originating in Turkey, the Persian ivy is an evergreen, woody vine with attractive and heart-shaped, deep green leaves. The heart-shaped leaves make for an attractive vertical display. In fact, the vine clings to walls and fences by aerial rootlets. It produces spherical yellow or greenish-white flowers that give way to small berries. The plant can be grown to cover trellises and walls. You can also grow it as a houseplant as it makes a beautiful cascading hanging basket. 
25. Breckland Thyme (Thymus serpyllum)Evergreen and low growing, the Breckland thyme is a dwarf, woody, creeping plant grown primarily as an ornamental ground cover. Hairy and prostrate, the plant produces tiny, tubular, bell-shaped flowers, deep pink to purple. It has tiny blue-green leaves. The plant leaves are aromatic and release a sweet-smelling fragrance. As a wonderful addition to your garden, it provides ground cover for pathways, patios, and borders. Come summer, the deep pink to purple blooms attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. 
Thank you for reading our article on 25 garden plants for ground cover!
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Paul Nicolaides has over 30 years of recreational gardening and 20 years of professional landscaping experience. He has worked for landscape contractors including design and build practices across London and the South East. In 2006 he qualified with a BA Hons degree and post graduate diploma in Landscape Architecture. In 2009 he founded Ecospaces an ecological landscaping practice which aims to improve social cohesion and reduce climate change through landscaping. In 2016 he founded Buckinghamshire Landscape Gardeners which designs and builds gardens across Buckinghamshire and the South East. This blog aims to provide easy problem solving information to its audience and encourage others to take up the joy of landscaping and gardening.
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