How to build garden steps – Step by step Illustrated

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Building garden steps often becomes a necessity when creating easy access to garden level changes.

How you build your steps will really depend upon what the particular scenario is and what materials you use. There are actually several methods of building steps from soft groundwork retainers to more solid construction.

What method you choose will depend on your circumstances and what your steps are adjoining too. The two most typical scenarios are; garden steps on a slope and garden steps between two levels. 

What is the best riser height for outdoor garden steps? 

The most important thing to consider when working out steps is incorporating a comfortable stepping height. Research carried out on this subject concluded that the ideal step height was around 175mm (7inches).

However In landscaping I believe this measurement should be lower. Outdoor conditions mean steps can be wet and generally much more hazardous.

Furthermore elderly pedestrians do not have the option of taking the elevator in gardens. I find the perfect riser height for landscape steps should be around 150mm (6inches) which is conveniently the height of two bricks with mortar joints.

This fact makes it even easier to set out new steps up along new brickwork. 
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How to build garden steps on a slope?

​Very rarely do gardens provide a perfectly level surface to work with. Natural contours and undulation can make general circulation difficult especially in winter. In some circumstances gardens can have very steep slopes requiring steps to bridge drastic level changes.

However most of the time garden steps up slopes are more of an average gradient. More gradual slopes allow you to build steps with less solid construction build ups. Gradual slopes can be based up like patios or paths with steps acting as low retaining walls.

The ultimate way to set out your steps on a slope is to work out your overall height by distance. For this example we will use a distance of 10 metres with a level change of 2m. 
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​We know that we want a step of around 150mm so to calculate the number of steps we divide 2.000mm by 0.150mm = 13.333 Therefore we know we have to build 13 steps, the remaining 333mm can be divided up between the 13 steps. 333mm / 13 steps = 27.75mm Bear in mind that the step treads themselves should have a slight fall on them to allow water to run off down the steps. This means some of the remaining 27.75mm per step can be allowed for in the fall. I would make each step riser 160mm with a rise of 17.75mm over the length of the tread (770mm) Now we have to divide the 13 treads by the 10 metre long distance: 10.000mm / 13 = 0.769mm Therefore by rounding up the tread amount we can say that each tread will be around 770mm long.  ​

Building steps up a slope generally requires longer treads and less frequent risers. This means most of the time you are creating a stepped route or pathway.

This means it is more costly to surface the all of the steps with a hard material than shorter and steeper steps. The cheapest way to build steps on a slope is by using sleepers as risers. These can be set into the ground on edge and fixed to treated timber posts concreted into the ground.
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The treads can then be based up like a path with mot type 1 and gravels laid as a finished surface. Alternatively you can use a thick layer of bark mulch or even re-grade the soil around them and turf.  
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Bear in mind that for long running slopes you will need very long retaining sides to steps. This is so side on you see still see the material used for the risers. For example if you build the steps with bricks the bricks will have to run a fair distance back into the slope before they are hidden.

This means you will need to install a disproportional amount of concrete foundation for partially visual bricks. Consequently this could make brickwork and even concrete steps on long slopes expensive. 

However if you have the budget paving steps over long slopes can be approached as a stepped pathway. These can be very effective.

Alternatively brick and concrete can be used to build the retaining risers with the treads based with a cheaper material. A good example would be a brick on edge riser with a free binding gravel tread infill. 

How to build garden steps between two levels

Ultimately the most common reason for building steps outdoors is to provide easy passage between two levels. Quite often when new patios and decks are constructed there can be profound level changes created.

This is especially so where gardens have naturally sloping ground. In landscaping it is very common for clients to wish to re-work existing steps because they are too steep or the treads too narrow.

Ultimately garden steps dimensions are constrained by the desired distance of the run, the overall height and the desired riser height. The more run distance you have the more flexibility you have. 
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Building garden steps between two levels becomes a much larger project the higher you build. Just like any construction project the greater the size, weight and mass the greater the preparation.

This is especially so with masonry like bricks and concrete block steps. Large structures will have to have retaining wall thickness and be tied into existing masonry. Such large steps will need adequate foundations to take the weight of the structure.

Timber steps spanning two levels can be attached to joist work and fixed to posts concreted into the ground. To build garden steps to connect two levels you will need to work out your overall height by run distance.

For this example we will use a distance of 4 metres and a height of 2 metres.

​We know that we want a step of around 150mm so to calculate the number of steps we divide 2.000mm by 0.150mm = 13.333 Therefore we know we have to build 13 steps, the remaining 333mm can be divided up between the 13 steps. 333mm / 13 steps = 27.75mm Bear in mind that the step treads them should have a slight fall on them to allow water to run off and down the steps. This means some of the remaining 27.75mm per step can be allowed for in the fall. I would make each step riser 160mm with a rise of 17.75mm over the length of the tread (307mm) Now we have to divide the 13 treads by the 10 metre long distance: 4.000mm / 13 = 0.307mm Therefore by rounding up the tread amount we can say that each tread will be around 307mm long.

How to build garden steps with timber sleepers

​Sleeper steps laid flat

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It is possible to build sleeper steps completely of sleepers by laying them on their side. These can have loose gravels filled in behind for wider steps.

Generally however a sleeper’s depth is between 100-125mm meaning the steps will be very shallow. However building sleeper steps this way is very straight forward and popular. 

Step 1

​Measure the proposed height and distance of the steps to make sure your steps will fit comfortably. 

Step 2

​Excavate out a foundation to enable you to bed your first sleeper down onto a concrete bed
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Step 3

​Cut your sleepers to the desired width and if you need retaining sides cut these and bolt them together. 
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Step 4

​Fix external screws to the base of your sleepers so they stick out half way
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Step 5

Fill the foundation with a wet but stiff concrete mix, bed on your sleeper until its level and flush with the concrete. 

Step 6

​Base up the void your sleeper has formed with more concrete and bed on the next level until you reach the top. 
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 Sleeper steps laid on edge

Laying sleepers on edge is by far the most common method and allows you more flexibility with riser heights. For 150mm risers you buy 150mm wide sleepers or stick to standard 200mm sleepers and adjust the height.

Sleeper steps built on edge allow you to infill the tread with aggregates or paving. Sleepers are typically bolted to timber posts concreted vertically into the ground.

Step 1

​Measure the proposed height and distance of the steps to make sure your steps will fit comfortably. 
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Step 2

Excavate out a foundation to enable you to bed your first sleeper down onto a concrete bed
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Step 3

​Excavate two post holes behind the sleeper, one at each end of the sleeper. 
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Step 4

​Cut two sections of treated timber posts so they fit in the posts holes about an inch from the top of the sleeper.
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Step 5

​Fix the sleeper to the posts with timberlock fixings, get them into position and then concrete them in. 
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Step 6

​Continue this process until you reach your finished height, fill in with concrete and compacted hardcore as you go. 
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Step 7

​Complete the steps by laying your wearing surface to the treads, this can be gravel, concrete, paving or more sleepers. 
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How to build garden steps with pavers

​Building steps entirely with paving can be extremely aesthetically pleasing and perfect for contemporary gardens. However it is also tricky to achieve with risers having to be concreted in perfectly plumb and into position. It has to be said though the effort is usually worth it!
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Step 1

​Measure the proposed height and distance of the steps to make sure your steps will fit comfortably. 
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Step 2

​Peg out your finished heights for each step so you know how high to cut the paving for the risers. If you are building up against a wall mark your finished height and thickness of the paving. This is so the tread paver can sit perfectly flush on the riser paver.  
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Step 3

​Excavate a foundation about 300mm deep for your slab riser to be concreted in upright. Make sure the excavation is at a right angle to the wall. Also make sure the excavation is consistent with no loose soil.
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Step 4

​Mix up a strong concrete mix not too wet but wet enough to tamp to a perfectly flush level. Lay a couple of inches of concrete to the foundation and work to a consistent flush level. Make sure you use a spirit level to reach a good even level. Then let the concrete set over night. 
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Step 5

​Measure the distance from the base level of the concrete to the top of the proposed riser. Cut your paving to that height as square and as neat as you can. You will also have to cut the correct width of the riser to fit your steps width. 
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Step 6

​Place your riser upright onto the base concrete in the foundation vertically. Make sure the top of your riser is in position and perfectly square on to the proposed steps. 
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Step 7

When you are happy with the position of the risers wedge them into position and concrete them in. Let the risers go off over night and then start the next one. Eventually you will have a series of solid risers which can be back filled with concrete as you go. 
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Step 8

​Mix up some concrete and fill in the step voids between the steps. At this point you can bury some old hardcore in with the concrete. Make sure you leave an inch from the top of the riser to mortar in the top tread paver. 

Step 9

Mix up a 1:4 sharp sand mortar mix and bed your tread pavers onto the risers. You may need to experiment with the amount of mortar applied.

You want a consistent bed under the slab with a slight fall towards the higher riser. You may have to cut the tread pavers depending on the step width you have chosen. This can be done with an electric stone grinder and diamond blade.  
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How to build garden steps with concrete

The great thing about building steps with concrete is they can easily be moulded into any form or shape. With skilled formwork and shuttering pretty much anything becomes possible.

However most of the time basic squares and straight lines are all that are needed for steps. This means a few concrete blocks and square sections of timber are usually all you need.

​The only downside to concrete steps is they usually need to be rendered, painted or clad.
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Step 1

​Measure the proposed height and distance of the steps to make sure your steps will fit comfortably. 
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Step 2

​If your step does not have a base excavate to a depth of 150mm and lay a concrete base.
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Step 3

​Create form work and shapes so vertical and plumb risers can be formed.

Step 4

​Lay wet concrete to the form work moulds; make sure to work the concrete well to eliminate air pockets. Tamp and trowel the top of the concrete to a level and consistent surface. 
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Step 5

​If you have multiple steps to concrete continue the process in sections until you reach the top.
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Step 6

​When the concrete is set carefully remove the form work and clad the concrete in whatever finish is desired. 

How to build steps with bricks & blocks 

​One of the most popular and robust methods of building garden steps is with bricks and concrete blocks. Bricks can provide a material which can match into existing surfaces of the home and local landscape. Concrete blocks allow you to erect concrete structures quickly and can be rendered, painted, clad or tiled. 
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Step 1

​Measure the proposed height and distance of the steps to make sure your steps will fit comfortably. 
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Step 2

​Excavate out a foundation for the steps blocks and bricks. The size and depth of this will depend on how large the proposed steps are. 
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Step 3

​Lay the new concrete foundations to the excavated area and work to a consistent level.
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Step 4

Lay brickwork or blockwork to the shape of your new steps making sure to build them level and square. If building up against existing masonry walls make sure you tie the steps into the existing structure. 
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Step 5

Make sure you allow the brickwork or blockwork to cure for at least 36 hours! Fill the new step frame with either well compacted hardcore or sub base. Alternatively for even stronger steps fill with a concrete mix. 
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Step 6

Once the frame is built clad any concrete faces and lay your treads with whatever material you like. 
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Are you planning on building your own landscaping project? Why not visit our essential landscaping tools article or resource page. 

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